SCAFELL PIKE
England | 978m
Carving a slowly ascending line along the northern flank of the Scafell massif, the Corridor Route is probably the most attractive and engaging route onto England’s highest mountain. Less a scramble than a rocky walk, it cuts a scenic line through some of the most majestic terrain in the Lake District. Narrow as it is, this track must be walked single-file, with various craggy steps to negotiate up and down. Only one section could really be called the crux, and is a somewhat awkward downclimb on the ascent which might just barely scrape a Grade 1 ranking. But for the most part this is a gently rising walk through the heart of Big Mountain country in the Lakes. The start, from the glassy Styhead Tarn and its landmark stretcher box – a favourite rest stop – offers a faint challenge in being fairly indistinguishable. Once you’re on it though, the passage ahead is clear: it’s pretty much the only one possible, a thin path traversing a deepening valley. On the other side is the commanding and scree-littered hulk of Great
Gable. The sharp-eyed will be able to make out the historic Napes Needle, pointing out from the slopes. Here, in June 1886, Walter Parry Haskett Smith made an exploratory and unroped climb to the top of the spear, marking, it is generally thought, the first climb for sport and not necessity, leaving his hankie fluttering on the top and a new line in the history books.
This is not the only drama to be seen though, as up ahead is a giant axe-chop of a gully: Piers Gill. From the path it appears to cleave Lingmell,
Scafell Pike’s smaller sibling, in two. Eventually, the path will curve around to pass the very head of the gill, which drops into a steep-sided, dark and mossy trench. Gazing into this is spine-tingling, but climbing into it is not advised – this is a Mountain Rescue black spot where people have been lost or killed in the past. Here, you are in what feels like very mountainous terrain, surrounded by impassable cliffs, boulders, and screepacked gullies with clouds frequently misting the heights. Not far ahead, the Corridor Route merges with the main
Wasdale track, zig-zagging through loose stones on a final, punishing push to the summit. What awaits you there depends on weather and raw luck. If you get it good, it will be the highest, most expansive view in the country. If not so good, it will be a crowning summit cairn wrapped in cloud. Fortunately though, the way up is so interesting, with such stupendous views, that it doesn’t matter so much what happens on the top.
From here, you have several options: you could go down the way you came up – and it is just as good, or some might argue better, in reverse. Or (mapped above) you march over a boulder field, down a loose path then up and over to Broad Crag and Great End, adding another Wainwright to your day (scoot up Lingmell on the way up to make it three). This walk back follows the churning Ruddy Gill beneath the towering buttresses of Great End and is a beauty in its own right. It’s also possible to make this an almostcircular route from Wasdale Head, by first following the path along the northern bank of Lingmell Beck and then returning via the main mountain track alongside Lingmell Gill. In fact, there are numerous variations, limited only by your ability to apply the map to the ground and move yourself along it. We definitely think you should move along this one though. Whatever mountain it was on, the Corridor Route would be gourmet, so the fact that it takes you up England’s highest is the icing on an already tasty cake.
In some circles, Snowdon has a mixed reputation. There are terrible crowds, some say. The summit, which should be the literal pinnacle of wildness in Wales, has a café on it, and a train chugs passengers all the way to the top daily in the warmer months. This enormous massif, though, is far too imperious to be subjugated by such things as these. Snowdon is still, and will be for a long
time to come, a mountain of towering proportions overshadowed only by its own legend. It’s here that Hillary trained for Everest, and where George Mallory honed his skill on rock and ridge. It is here that, according to legend, King Arthur overthrew a giant who made the beards of his enemies into a cape and having done so demanded that a cairn, or ‘Yr Wyddfa’, be built over his body. It is also here that many hundreds or thousands of people have their first, sometimes life-changing, contact with the mountains.
Which means it’s worth making special, and while there are many routes of regard leading up there, we think this might be the best. Unless, that is, you get a thrill from ridges and have a head for heights in which case check out the gnarly option on page 37...
What makes the Pyg Track so good is the journey it takes you on, into the heart of the mountain range with the summit looming over you from the moment you cross Bwlch y Moch,
just 1.5km out from the car park. From here, the Pyg traverses the mountainside on a slow, at first, and rocky ascent. Below are the shimmering blue waters of Llyn Llydaw and then, as you climb, the more secretive Glaslyn. Directly above is the jagged line of Crib Goch and on the other side of this huge cwm, the lilting Y Lliwedd ridge. All around are the encompassing arms of enormous mountains. This route takes you right into the middle of them.
Much of the height gain comes in one lung-searing climb to Bwlch Glas, where on all but the finest of days a sudden temperature drop and blast of fresh wind indicate the approach to the summit. There you will find people, dogs and the café of course, but also spiralling views on a good day. The fun on this route, however, really begins on the return. Here we recommend a route truly befitting this majestic hill – the highest in the British Isles outside of Scotland. The beautifully wavering ridge line of Y Lliwedd. As well as the highest point in England and Wales, the Snowdon massif also has the tallest cliffs, and this route goes straight over the top of them. By staying high and traversing right over Y Lliwedd, you pick up the southern part of the Snowdon Horseshoe with some delightful scrambling, an optional breath of exposure and a glorious ridge walk.
The north-facing cliffs, when seen from below on your walk along the Pyg, or in profile on the approach, fall into deep, intimidating shadow. The southfacing flank is considerably less steep but the crest, with the most enjoyable scrambling, is the line you should take. It will lift you, on a high traverse,
following the cliffs to their eastern terminus. Crib Goch is seen in razor-sharp profile to the north, and the rivers, lake and woods of Nant Gwynant far below to the south. Until, just over 3km from the car park, it dips to join the Miner’s track on the final stroll to the end.
Some might argue that Crib Goch is the best way, but many a walker has clung their way along that narrow arête, face pale with fear, fingers skeletal with gripping. For those who enjoy heights, it is delectable. For those who don’t it can be, at best a test of nerve, at worst a trip around the neck of death. It’s not for everyone. The Pyg and Y Lliwedd together, however, are neither petrifying or bland – they’re blinding.