Day one: Loch Mullardoch by canoe/kayak
Hemmed in by high mountains, the fjord -like expanse of Loch Mullardoch is an inspiring place to paddle a sea kayak or open canoe. You’ll probably see more eagles and deer than people, and the only other boat is likely to be the Loch Mullardoch Ferry. This really feels like the big country! However, the loch is a huge expanse of open water, very cold at any time of year, and potentially very serious in unsettled weather. Parties attempting the loch need to be experienced canoeists or sea kayakers, with all the essential safety gear and skills to get themselves out of trouble (if anything goes wrong there’s little prospect of help on the loch, and no chance of a mobile phone signal). Buoyancy aids, flares and spare paddles are essential, and all bedding and warm clothing should be securely stowed in dry-bags. This is not the place for your first big kayak trip!
By sea kayak or open canoe, allow several hours to reach the far end of the loch. Save this trip for still conditions.
Surprisingly large waves can build up in windy weather, particularly if the wind is blowing easterly or westerly along the length of the loch. If you’re paddling into a headwind it can be hard to make the distance at all, while a tailwind may make progress fast, but rather too exciting.
Keep hugging the shore all the way to the far end of the loch: there’s more to look at, and it’s less far to swim if you take a nasty spill. Assuming the wind direction doesn’t make your choice for you, then the south shore is the more scenic option. From the shingle beach by the north end of the dam first cut south-west across the open water to reach the south shore.
For the first few kilometres there are pretty Scots pine on the bank, and several waterfalls dropping into the loch. Beyond the obvious narrows it becomes bleaker. About 1km before the western end of the loch make landfall in the bay at the mouth of Gleann a’ Choilich, just west of the rushing river outflow. Pick a spot on the shore here to make camp.
NH100287 Follow 1 an obvious (though unmapped) track into Gleann a ‘Choilich and ford the river where the track does – watch out if it’s in spate. Now make a merciless head-on assault of the steep, pathless west flank of Beinn Fhionnlaidh. It’s a brutal start to the day, but at least height is gained quickly. This otherwise unremarkable grassy Munro is notable for being hard to get at from anywhere, being stuck on a limb of Carn Eighe above the uninhabited expanse of Loch Mullardoch.
NH115282 From the 2 summit cairn a clear path runs down to grassy Bealach Beag and on up the curving, stony north ridge of Carn Eighe. This is the highest peak north of the Great Glen, and your legs will probably be feeling it. A quick descent and reascent then gains the top of neighbouring giant Mam Sodhail, the final climb needing a bit of care in icy snow. The massive circular drystone cairn on top dates from Ordnance Survey mapping in the 19th century.
NH120252 Drop 3 easily south-west, passing the ruins of an old hut and then following a broad stony ridge over two unnamed minor summits; a flanking path can be found some way down on the right, but it’s nicer to stay on top to pass the cairn on the second peak. Before reaching summit 1068m peel off right,
descending about 50m to pick up the path, which makes a descending traverse onto the Bealach Coire Ghaidheil (a direct line from 1068m to the pass runs into unpleasantly craggy ground). The bealach is a useful cross-country hiker’s through route from Glen Affric to Loch Mullardoch, and offers escape options both north and south.
NH099239 Next comes twin-peaked An Socach, a little hill with plenty of craggy charm. Though it only just scrapes Munro height it is flanked at either end by low cols, and exacts more effort than expected; the second summit is the higher. In atrocious weather the next bealach also offers get-out options: an easy path heads south to Alltbeithe Youth Hostel in the roadless upper reaches of Glen Affric; going north, steep craggy ground leads quickly into Gleann a’ Choilich. A rough, steep ascent over Stob Coire na Cloiche (a minor summit, unnamed on Landranger map) gains the long east ridge of Sgurr nan Ceathramhnan. This is the third of the day’s trio of biggies, a complex and beautiful mountain with an enticing tapered profile when seen from this angle. The long, knobbly ridge starts gently, but steepens considerably for the final summit slog.
NH058229 From the cairn on the high point descend the narrow north-east ridge. This is pleasantly airy, and needs care under snow.
The next col, Bealach nan Daoine (unnamed on the OS Landranger map) provides another get-out option – but it’s worth persevering on the clear path along the rugged ridge for some of the day’s best views. Beyond Carn na Con Dhu the crest narrows briefly before the easy pull up to Mullach na Dheiragain, the sixth Munro of the day (if you’re counting), and arguably the area’s least accessible 3000er.
NH080259 A narrow col links this with the final summit, Mullach Sithidh, from where the entire Gleann a’ Choilich round is visible in an undulating arc. Bear right from here to minor top 933m, then follow the line of least resistance downhill, heading roughly north-north-east and staying slightly further left than intuition suggests to avoid craggy ground lower down. The rough,spongelike slopes lead quickly back to your base camp.