Aran Benllyn, Snowdonia
Aran Benllyn from Llanuwchllyn is a great walk through Snowdonia, but add a subtle twist and it becomes incredible...
Poor old Aran Benllyn. In other company she would be the main attraction, and cuts a fine figure when seen from Llyn Tegid (Bala Lake), but geology has been unkind, as forever she will live in the shadow of Fawddwy, higher and finer in almost every respect. Always the bridesmaid...
But on this walk we give Aran Benllyn the attention she deserves, away from the prying eyes of her big sister. In an age where a litany of gender pronouns can be overwhelming, the mountains, to me, will always be female. Let’s not labour the analogy any further.
Back in the real world this route begins gently and ends in the same vein – two beautiful adagios bookending an intense allegro which will leave you spent by the cairn!
Wide-ranging views, solitude and a sense of discovery are the main themes of this day, which I am sure is one you will want repeat, such is its exquisite ‘shape’. Memories of Llyn Lliwbran will linger, the summit view will haunt your dreams and on dark days your mind’s eye will take you back to Benllyn.
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From the car park turn left and follow the road a short distance until a sharp right turn gains a single track road. This is the road to Bwlch y Groes and ascends steadily through a verdant landscape of farms and pasture land. Behind you (don’t forget to look) is the elegant form of Arenig Fawr, and to your right the foothills of Aran Benllyn rise majestically above a tapestry of fields and woodland. Road walking is often unpleasant, but this first stretch of the route is a joy to tread and one to savour. Do, however, keep your ears open for passing traffic, as the road is lined with high hedges and visibility is at times limited. Just before reaching an old red telephone box take the road on the right and enter the tiny hamlet of Talardd.
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Cross Pont Talardd which spans the Afon Twrch and keep right thereafter to gain access to Cwm Croes, where the barking of various farm dogs will no doubt keep you on your toes! Several farms are passed in this remote valley, and just shy of Nant-y-Llyn a permissive path on the right leads into a field of lush grass with Aran Benllyn beckoning all but the most reluctant feet. After an easy 5km stroll it’s time to gain some height. At the far end of the field a gate signals the start of rougher, uncultivated land and after another gate/stile combo access land is underfoot. Roughly follow the stream until Llyn Lliwbran suddenly comes into view. Our route doesn’t necessitate a visit to the water’s edge but it would be rude not to spend a while there, wondering how such an impressive place is virtually pathless. Crest the ridge on the right of the llyn and enjoy several hundred wonderful easy metres before things get steep. Ahead, the main Aran ridge must be gained and is done so by contriving a meandering route of your own such is the dearth of trodden ways.
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Arriving on the ridge is one of ‘those’ moments. For some time the view has been constricted by Cwm Croes’ sheer walls, but up on the crest an expansive vista can be enjoyed. Carefully cross the fence and turn left to a the steepening lies a false summit but keep your head down and before long you’ll be sat by the cairn wolfing down Jaffa Cakes.
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If you’ve not had enough ascent for one day then Aran Fawddwy, the highest peak south of Snowdon, can be bagged in an out-and-back sortie which will add over an hour to your day. From Benllyn the return leg is one of the most pleasant in Snowdonia. Retrace your steps to where the main ridge is gained and just keep going. A faint path, damp in places, is followed over several stiles all the way back to Llanuwchllyn.