Rhobell Fawr
Looking for something a little different? Try this wild walk up an extinct Welsh volcano in southern
As a nondescript hump surrounded by much finer mountains, Rhobell Fawr isn’t the most obvious or appealing destination for hillwalkers. Its attractions, however, are myriad to those that seek solitude and revel in big views.
This particular route is the most rewarding and varied way to climb this neglected old fella, and rewards the walker with scenery that ranges from bucolic to wild and woolly via a long-deserted industrial wasteland. Starting as a lazy ramble from the sequestered village of Llanfachreth, country lanes propels you into a landscape which soothes nerves jangled by the existential angst of life in the 2020s. As if stepping through a portal you are transported back in time to a simpler existence where cares are few and the sun always shines. Then, quite imperceptibly, the mood music has changed. Gone are the verdant pastures and leafy lanes, replaced by an austere tract of rough moorland peppered with adits and heaps of spoil. Your mountain, obvious now, beckons and only a severe bout of huff and puff will see you at the summit. Enjoy the view, it’s a good one, and descend the ridge back to the Arcadia whence you came.
SH755225 From the car park, turn left and follow the lane enjoying the tranquil atmosphere as you go. Before long you will pass an impressive Grade II listed stone arch (an entrance to the Nannau Estate), the lintel of which weighs 18 tons and was transported from the Rhinogydd over 10 miles distant. Continue past (not through) the arch as the lane enters woodland before reaching a fork. Take the left fork and as you reach lonely Ty Capel Carmel take a moment to look behind you at the wonderful view of Cader Idris. Onwards and you will pass Ystumgwadnaeth, named after a nearby Roman hill fort and now defended by a herd of alpacas! Drag yourself away and continue on for just over 1km where the lane descends steeply to the right and a track branches off to the left. Things are about to take a turn!
SH786218 Follow the track on the left as it charts a meandering course around a gentle swelling. All too soon you leave the picturesque behind you and enter into an altogether different type of landscape. A shaggy wilderness awaits and ahead Rhobell Fawr rears up. Stay with the track and pass through an area of old mine workings, ignoring the temptation to explore the many ominous holes hereabouts. Passing through a small plantation you’ll find yourself at the very foot of the mountain. Turn right and after about 600m a cross wall descends from above. The way ahead is now bleakly obvious! Follow the wall straight up on either side for a tough slog of 1000ft. Depending on which side of the wall you’ve handrailed you will meet either a stile or a break in the wall. Once over the wall, head north-north-east for 250m and collapse at the trig point! The view requires no description and it’s doubtful there are words to do it adequate justice.
SH786256 Once you’ve drunk in the scenery, and had a cheese sandwich, the descent couldn’t be easier. Return to the wall, put your hands in your pockets and follow it now heading westsouth-west all the way down to an elaborate sheepfold at Bwlch Goriwared, over which an old drovers road makes its way. So far the descent has been idyllic and continues in much the same vein.
SH764245 Turn left at Bwlch Goriwared and follow the track for 1km before picking up a bridleway on the right. A waymarked path leads beautifully back to
Llanfachreth, where you will find it just as peaceful and charming as you left it.