THE BIG QUESTIONS
Natural or synthetic?
Every fabric – natural, synthetic, or mixed – has its own strengths and weaknesses, including durability, performance, and the impact of its production. Synthetic fabrics are often made from non-renewable, petrochemical-derived plastics – although plant-based semi-synthetic alternatives are on the rise – which shed microplastics and last forever in landfill. On the upside, synthetic kit is often relatively affordable, and can be made with recycled content and then recycled at the end of its life.
Natural fabrics are not without issues, from water and pesticide usage to animal welfare. Look for guarantees of responsible production, including organic certification for cotton; fastgrowing, water-saving, disease-resistant crops such as bamboo and hemp; and animal welfare standards for down, wool, and leather. Natural fibres often have superior thermo-regulating, antimicrobial and comfort qualities to synthetics, and biodegrade once their useful life has come to an end.
Microplastics, such as those shed from synthetic fabrics during production, wear and washing, are a huge problem globally. They’ve been found on the highest mountains and deepest ocean trenches, and in our food, water and even the air around us. While no conclusive evidence currently exists for their harm to humans, in marine life they have been found to disrupt reproductive systems, cause inflammation and damage organs, so it’s not likely to be good news for us either. While science unravels the countless unknowns around microplastics and what we might be able to do about them, choose natural fabrics; low-shedding products such as Polartec’s Power Air fleece, developed in conjunction with Swedish brand Houdini; and use a Guppybag to catch fibres when you wash synthetics.
To PFC or not?
Due to their ability to repel water, grease and stains, PFCs (perfluorocarbons) are common in many household goods as well as clothing. In outdoor gear they’re used as a durable water repellent (DWR) treatment. Unfortunately, PFCs are damaging to wildlife and associated with a host of unpleasant health effects in humans. They are widespread – found in tap water, breastmilk, the food we eat and even the air we breathe – so it’s clear we need to be reducing our exposure. Isabelle Liahaugen, head designer at Swedish outdoor brand Klättermusen, which only uses DWR treatments that are 100% PFC-free, told us: “It’s more complex
than using PFCs, because you have to match each fabric with the right DWR treatment to get the best performance. But given the evidence against PFCs, using them simply isn’t an option for us.”
So what are the alternatives? Helly Hansen’s Lifa Infinity Pro fabric uses heat treatment to create an ‘inherent DWR’ effect that doesn’t require chemical treatment. Other options involve the use of silicon-, wax-, or plant-based water repellents, which remove many of the downsides of PFCs. Many brands are already PFC-free for all new products, while others have set dates to become PFC-free or have eliminated their use of the chemicals across certain ranges.