WALKS OF A LIFETIME
Seen from the A82 as it crosses Rannoch Moor, the Black Mount range sits tantalisingly within reach, yet mysteriously aloof. Let’s climb two of its Munros.
The Black Mount, Highlands
Okay, so this walk is only half of the Black Mount, but that’s more than enough for a day’s walking, not to mention the fact that it leaves the other half for the future. And what could be better than that? Sitting up near Bridge of Orchy, between the glen of that name and Glen Coe, these are some of Argyll and Bute’s finest hills. The name Black Mount originally comes from the name of the forest that once stood here. Alas today vast plantations cloak the valley floor to the south of our two Munros, and none of the original Caledonian Pine forest survives. Those two Munros – Stob a’ Choire Odhair and Stob Ghabhar – make for a fine horseshoe of a route
though, with a ridge or two to make you think. Not to mention stunning scenery, eagles and more red deer than you could ask for.
There’s a conveniently placed car park to start from (NN271419), a few hundred metres south of Victoria Bridge. All those deer I mentioned mean one thing; lots of deer-stalking in the season, which is roughly from the start of August until nearly the end of October. During this time, exploring off the main paths and ridges isn’t a good idea. The Blackmount Estate, which controls the stalking, will have posted info on a board near the car park, so keep an eye on that and take note of any warnings...
In summer, the initial walk-in is a lush affair. I can see why the deer like it, it’s green everywhere. After heading north from the starting point and crossing Victoria Bridge, the way turns westwards at Forest Lodge (NN271423), along the northern banks of the Abhainn Shira. This is a good warm up for the legs. Follow the northerly branch of the river when you get to the fork, this is roughly 1.5km from Victoria Bridge. About the same distance again sees you well up into the early part of Coire Toag, following the river of the same name. At map point 1 (NN253435) the vast Stob Ghadhar looms to the north-west. It won’t be long, a few hours at most, before we’re up there striding through the clouds. First we’re going to break with the more normal Munro-bagging route and strike off-path, up the south-southwest ridge that leads to the peak of Beinn Toaig. At 834m it’s a subsidiary peak of our first Munro, Stob a’ Choire Odhair. The ridge is straight, and hard-going as it doesn’t mess about. But it brings rewards in the form of height gained and ground covered. Those legs of yours will be earning their lunch-time pasty as they deliver you to a mountain playground I think you’ll thank me for.
At the top of Beinn Toaig (map point 2, NN262455) don’t look around too much – try to save it for the Munro. But if you do peek out of the corner of your eye... holy moly, the route around the skyline to the west of us, where we’re headed, promises big, exciting stuff. A short drop to the north-west, then a little climb brings us to the rocky, broad-topped but shapely summit of Stob a’ Choire Odhair (map point 3, NN257459). At 945m, it’s not the biggest Munro in town, but we all know size isn’t everything, don’t we? To the north-north-east the hugely long Blackwater Reservoir can be partially seen, along with, further around to the east-north-east, Loch Laidon. We are, of course, looking over the vast tract of land that makes up Rannoch Moor. It’s as well that we give it the attention it deserves as we’ll have plenty of other things to occupy our eyes a little later on.
These are grassy mountains, when they’re not rocky. Grassy hills always have a softer, more sculpted look about them, and these are no different. Leaving the summit of Stob a’ Choire Odhair, heading west along the broad ridge, a fine view is before you; Aonach Eagach (our next peak, not to be confused with the one in Glen Coe) and the second Munro Stob Ghabhar. Get to the head of Coire Toaig at map point 4 (NN238457), just north of Aonach Eagach, and you’ll have a similarly grand view back to our first Munro. You’ll appreciate what
I mean about the grassy lines.
I hope you’ve got your ‘brave’ pants on? We climb south, over the subsidiary summit of Aonach Eagach, then things get just a little juicy. Don’t worry, it’s nothing too technical, just a narrow ridge walk, sweeping around back up to the north-west to meet the summit of Stob Ghabhar. It’s quite strong in my memory as the first time I ever did this route it was winter, I was as green as they come, and it was bloomin’ windy. So there I am, trying to take pics of my colleagues, trying to hold on to something and make my way along it. At one point the wind shot across at the perfect angle to (alarmingly so) lift one of my eyelids and repeatedly flutter it back down onto my eyeball. Now that may sound like a fuss about
nothing, but when it keeps happening for five minutes it’s a freaky experience. Hopefully you’ll have a safe and fulfilling crossing. It’s obviously one of the best picture opportunities.
All will be well at map point 5 (NN230455) as you’re at Stob Ghabhar. At 1090m it’s the high point of the day. Look north-north-east into the tiny, secret Coirein Lochain, then south-west into the titanic Coire Ghabhar, and know this – you are on one unseemingly big lump of rock, and you’ve more in common with the sky than the land at this moment in time. Two Munros and two other tops under your belt, chill for a while if conditions allow. A large rocky cairn at the top doesn’t afford much protection from the elements, but hopefully you’ll have chosen better conditions than the times I’ve been up here (I’ll let you into a little secret; I’ve never seen the view from the top! Such is life).
Leave the summit of Stob Ghabhar walking towards the north-west, following a gentle ridge that eventually decides to lay in a more or less westerly direction. At the top of this peak (map point 6, NN221457), you’re on Sron a’ Ghearrain, the last of the day. You should just be able to see both Munros to the east of you, although you’ll maybe only get a glimpse of the first.
Now it’s time to concentrate again, as there are a couple of options here. The route I’m suggesting heads southwest down the easy angled slopes of Sron a’ Ghearrain’s western face to meet a ford and a definite path, then a little later another ford at map point
(NN219445). The other option is to follow the fence line along the ridge that leads to the south of the peak, making sure you turn to the south-south-west when it does. This will get you to the same point.
From the ford mentioned above, you’re at the edge of a bealach. Follow the path into Coire Ghabhar, staying on the western shore of the river of the same name. There are loads of tributaries to cross, and it’s worth wearing gaiters for this section if there’s been lots of rain (walking poles are always good for crossing water). I love the sense of calmness you get when dropping into a huge glen after a day up high in the mountains. Shortly after reaching the first of the plantation forests, cross another ford (map point 8, NN232427). Then head east past the buildings of Clashgour, along the forestry tracks, through a big section of plantation to the north of Abhainn Shira. This leg lasts for about 2km, and there could be a lot of wildlife in here so keep your eyes open.
Eventually, you reach the southeast corner of the plantation and a footbridge over Allt Toaig, at the point where it joins Abhainn Shira (map point 9, NN256424). Just over the bridge is Clashgour Hut. This tin shed isn’t really a bothy, but it can be hired out and sleeps up to 12 people (contact clashgourhut@gmail.com). The last 2km of the walk retrace the first 2km along the northern bank of Abhainn Shira.
I saw my first Scotch Argus butterflies here in August. I can recall thinking they’re not as big as I’d imagined, a bit like seeing Stonehenge for the first time…
So, back at the car, get the diary out and make a date to return to do the other half of the Black Mount. Plan it in while the experience is still fresh in your mind – the other half is a very different walk, but just as epic.