Black Cuillin, Isle of Skye
Not much of Skye’s Cuillin Ridge is accessible to walkers, but the section from Sgurr nan Eag to the southernmost point is – and it’s spectacular.
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There is something alive about the Black Cuillin, the jagged outline of peaks that score the sky for 12km along the Isle of Skye. Abrasive gabbro and ice-like basalt almost fizz with electricity when hit by the sun, and falling rock in the corries doesn’t so much rumble as cackle to the floor. These are the only Alpinestyle mountains in the UK with a magnetic quality, and it draws climbers from across the country and will actually mess up your compass if you’re not careful.
A full traverse of the ridge requires high levels of fitness, climbing ability, rope skills, a very good head for heights, a nose for route-finding and – for most – the employment of a guide. The southern section though, from Sgurr nan Eag to Gars-bheinn, the traditional starting point of a full traverse, is within reach of walkers, provided you’re happy to get your hands involved.
The scrambling is generally straightforward, though exposed and involves a steep descent in loose rock but there’s no difficulty from peak to peak. Just a simple stroll through one of the most magnificent settings in the UK, if not the world.
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NG409206 From the car park follow the road up towards the café for your last opportunity for toilets and snack replenishment. Take the path up left of the toilet block, briefly following the coastline, then branch left uphill. Where the path forks at a burn, stay right traversing gradually uphill past a lochan, crossing the Allt Coire Lagan after 1.3km. Continue on the upper of two parallel paths for another kilometre beneath the broad flank of Sron na Ciche.
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NG445192 The mouth of the corrie is characterised by huge slabs of glaciated rock. Impressive and tempting but stick to the path climbing high up the east-facing side, at the foot of the crags. At about 600m, it meets the Allt Coir' a' Ghrunnda and a waterfall. Scramble up rocks to the left to reach the upper terraces following the left bank of the burn to Loch Coir’ a’ Ghrunnda, the highest body of water in the Cuillin, quiet and glorious. It’s an excellent stop for replenishments. Head right around the south edge of the lochan, between the water and a huge outcrop, towards scree slopes on the west-facing edge of the corrie. Sgurr nan Eag rises up straight ahead of you.
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NG452201 There are two options for ascent: either tackle the
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scree slope directly, plotting your route from below to avoid difficulty, or head up through boulders to the right of Caisteal a’ Garbh-choire, the obvious block of rock on the summit ridge. From here, stick as closely as possible to the summit ridge over peridotite which is even more grippy than the usual gabbro. Make your way over blocks to a minor top preceding the summit ridge. The cairn and highest point lies at the far end.
NG457195 From here, it’s easy-going to Gars-bheinn following the crest of the ridge down into an obvious bealach and then up to Sgurr a’ Choire Bhig at 875m. The ridge dips again before ascending once more to Garsbheinn. On a fine day, this is blissful walking, with views over secretive Loch Coruisk, Blabheinn and Rum hovering on the horizon. From Garsbheinn, simply turn around and make your way back the way you came, to the northwesternmost
point of Sgurr nan Eag’s summit ridge. Here, you can either return the way you came, along the crest, or take the scree path for less scrambling.
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NG454198 Break off to the west following, at first, a quite well-worn path, staying to the left of the crags. This is mostly straightforward through boulders and loose rock but keep your wits about you to avoid going off-track into steep cliffs. Loch Coir’ a’ Ghrunnda is a great place for a final pause before the final descent and return to the start, with a large outcrop of rock to the south of its outflow offering a superb vantage point. When you’re ready, it’s a simple (but long) case of retracing your steps to Glenbrittle and a revitalising dip in the sea.