Rum Cuillin, Isle of Rum
A challenging and technical route through a magical landscape on the Isle of Rum.
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No words I write here will ever do justice to this route or the island it inhabits. The Rum Cuillin is not for the faint-hearted or the inexperienced. You are on your own in wild country and you need to be on top of your game with the route-finding.
You really need to do it in good weather, both for safety and enjoyment. While you are challenged almost continually, you are rewarded tenfold with a landscape that is unmatched anywhere I’ve ever walked. I honestly can’t put into words just how wonderful this place is. The sight of a white-tailed eagle, effortlessly gliding above the sea cliffs will stay with me for some time. As will the noise of thousands of manx shearwaters buzzing our tents at two in the morning! Trollabhal was so named by the Viking settlers on hearing the birds shrieking in the dead of night.
The Rum Cuillin is intimidating, exhilarating and fascinating in equal measure, and you’ll only ever understand if you go and do it.
1
NM401994 Follow the signpost for Coire Dubh and handrail the river south-west into the valley, passing a modern dam. Resist the inviting pool. Cross a ruined dam higher up (water fill up point) and ascend the south-east side of the Coire on a vague track. Cross the volcanic level at Cnapan Breaca and follow a rising southward track on the right to a stream-head that gives access to the broad north-west ridge of Hallival. The last section to the summit is vague and rocky. The easiest ground is on the left side of the ridge.
2
NM395962 Descend south-west, picking your way through some awkward ground by going right first, then left. There are steep drops. After crossing the level, you are faced with an intimidating barrier with slabs on the right. Taking it directly has serious scrambling. Avoid it to the left before pulling back right, onto the ridge, for atmospheric scrambling to the summit of Askival.
3
NM392952 Descend south-west, keeping slightly left initially, without getting pulled too far down the boulderfield. Swing back right to the crest of the ridge.
At Bealach an Oir, a small but steep rise leads to a possible camp location. The higher slopes around the summit of Trollabhal offer fun scrambling. The summit area is split in two by a gap. The true summit lies at the rear, north-western side and is accessed via a tricky descent on the right. The area can feel very exposed and there is very steep, craggy ground all around. Return to the first summit.
4
NM377951 The section between Trollabhal and Ainshval is the most difficult and potentially dangerous section of the route. The ascent to Ainshval looks intimidating. As you start to descend, keep left initially, avoiding a false track, to skirt around the craggy outcrops then move back right, to descend the nose of the ridge. Again, you need to be on the ball with your route-finding, as you weave through some rocky outcrops. It is easy to get pulled into very steep and awkward terrain. Try to keep to the centre of the ridge as best you can. This could be treacherous in the wet. After crossing Bealach an Fhuarain, a steep barrier blocks the way. It can be breached via a series of grassy ramps: the first rising from right to left, then some steep scrambling. A path on the right avoids this section. The second half of the ridge is characterised by a sharp rib of rock, running up the right hand side. It’s hard (Grade 3), committing, and should be avoided if carrying heavy packs or you are not an experienced scrambler. A good track leads up its left side and across the Grey Coire.
5
NM378943 The section between Ainshval and Sgurr nan Gillean is non-technical, barring a steep but easy ridge walk.
6
NM380930 Descend southward from Sgurr nan Gillean, through a small boulder field. There is next to nothing in terms of a path. As you get to the lower section, it is very easy to get drawn into some craggy and dangerous ground. Trend left to avoid this and a small cairn at around NM381925 marks a deep, grassy gully to descend. This could be lethal in rain and has an awkward 1m high step about midway. An alternative option is to descend immediately to its left. Pick your way east to Dibidil bothy.
7
NM393927 A cairned track leads north from the bothy to cross the river at a large boulder and slab, then round the left of an obvious knoll. The return to the village is easy to follow, along constructed paths and boggy sections. The real danger is crossing several rivers during or after rain. Do not underestimate the dangers here, as I was told at least one person has been swept to sea. It’s a long trudge back
to Kinloch!