Helvellyn via Catstye Cam, Lakes
Travel to one of the UK’s finest and most popular mountains via the alluring peak of Catstye Cam, in a tour de force of the Helvellyn range.
Ok, so they’re isn’t anything ‘new’ to do when it comes to the A-list mountain that is Helvellyn. But you can be more original by not doing the obvious. For my money, Catstye Cam is the star of the show, so let’s make it the first of our five peaks...
Glenridding is the place to start from. Get there early, not only to get a place in the large car park (map point 1, NY386169) but also to get on the hill before the true popularity of the area is revealed. The walk west through the village and onto Greenside Road (map point 2, NY381170) is quicker than you might expect. I love that rough track that leads up to YHA Helvellyn. If you have the choice, then this is the place to stay for this one, although it’ll extend the walk at the end of the day. Don’t be tempted to park up by the hostel if you’re not staying, there’s only enough spaces for the guests. The Greenside mine area, just to the north-west of the hostel has an interesting history, worth looking up, especially if you’re interested in atomic bombs... West of the hostel and other buildings, the left-hand path is the one to take, crossing the Glenridding Beck using a footbridge (map point 3, NY363173).
It’s from this point onwards that a certain mountain dominates the view to the south-west. Yes, it’s our Catstye Cam, looking every inch of its 890m height. Try to drag your gaze away
from it, just for a bit, because the valley you’re in is pretty special. Take a look at the steep slope of the higher bits of Glenridding Common, northeast of Brown Dodd. Here, high up among the rock, juniper shrubs are regaining a toehold, bringing a whole world of biodiversity with them. Not only that, they soften the hillside, making it look less like some kind of lunar, industrial waste site. Trust me on this one – get to this valley early and pay attention to what we all normally stride past, on what is normally ‘just’ the walk in.
The path through this valley stays on the southern shore of the beck, it’s the main one from this direction to Helvellyn’s Red Tarn. It steepens as it turns to the south, then lessens its angle as it veers to the south-west. It’s at about this point (map point 4, NY354156) that a thin path heads off the main one to the north-west. It’s time to switch on, because you’re about to climb steeply up the eastsouth-east spur of Catstye Cam. It’s funny how not being on a major route in the Lake District can seem almost ‘wrong’, but be brave and decisive. The way is steep but straightforward, and it’ll get you to the easternmost end of a broad summit ridge, one that terminates pretty soon in the rocky cone that is Catstye Cam’s true top (map point 5, NY348158).
As you can probably tell, I love this peak. I bivvied on it one summer night. It was sensational, because the ground pretty much falls away in all directions almost straightaway, so it lends itself to deep, sweeping views. From here, Striding Edge, Helvellyn itself and the next thing for us to tackle – Swirral Edge – fit into one, rather wide-angled photograph. A steep, but doable ridge climbs right up to your feet from the north-north-west. It looks like such a nice line, and it’s been on my list of things to do for a while now. But that’s for exploration another day. Because you’re here early, enjoy the quiet, sit on this airy prominence, eagle-like, for as long as you can. You’ll be wiser for it.
When the time comes, pack away your thoughts and head south-west off Catstye Cam’s summit towards Helvellyn’s Swirral Edge. I’ve many opinions about this mountain, but the main one for anyone interested is to climb up Swirral Edge rather than come down it. I mention this as it’s most commonly done in connection with Striding Edge (we’re ignoring this today) and means you end up struggling down Swirral. Well, here’s the newsflash; both ridges are far better in the other direction (in my opinion), Swirral first, then down to Striding, climbing rather than descending the bad step.
Where were we? At the col between Catstye Cam and Helvellyn, where the main path rejoins us. Swirral Edge in ascent is an enjoyable, weaving route, that does require hands on rock at a few places, and that obviously means the ridge slopes away steeply in places, to both sides. For most it’s fun, but never treat it lightly, it has a fiery temperament and can’t be trusted. Right at the top of the ridge is a convex shoulder that joins it to Helvellyn’s plateau summit area. It’s this convex section that can cause problems if snow and ice still linger. It’s a classic place for a pair of crampons and
an axe and, of course, the skills to use them. A cairn marks the top of Swirral Edge (map point 6, NY341153).
For the next 3km in a southerly direction, you’re on a slender ribbon of high mountain plateau, Helvellyn being the highest point. A trig point at map point 7 (NY342152) sits wonderfully close to Helvellyn’s north-east face, the edge of which you will have followed from the top of Swirral. Helvellyn’s summit sits at 950m, a bit south-east of the trig point (trig points were about line of sight to two other trig points, so don’t always actually sit on the highest point of a hill). A cross shelter (two walls forming a cross shape) ensures that no matter which direction the wind blows, there will be shelter. I’ve bivvied on the shelter benches before; not a great experience, I can remember waking up to two sheep staring at me. Another time I hiked up onto Helvellyn’s plateau in the dark. It was the first time I’d experienced the fact that at night, when faced with a person with a headtorch on, sheep don’t seem to give a monkey’s and just let you walk past, within feet of them. God knows what they eat up there, because on the plateau there really aren’t many plants. In the migratory seasons for birds (spring and autumn) it’s worth keeping an eye out for interesting visitors up here. Birds often like high stop-overs on their long journeys, and I’ve seen snow buntings up here on several occasions.
Plunging down the neckline of the route, keeping the crags to your left as you head south, the top of Striding Edge is ignored as a descent and then gentle re-ascent happens, bringing you magically to Nethermost Pike (map point 8, NY344142). Right, I’m going to let you in on a little secret... Slightly south-east of the actual high point of Nethermost Pike is its east ridge. It’s brilliant to walk up, a real quiet one, being in the shadow of Striding Edge. What’s more, you can combine it with any number of ways down, The Tongue on Dollywaggon Pike makes a perfect partner to it. Just don’t tell everyone.
The roller coaster effect is happening now – after Nethermost it’s High Crag (barely a bump), then Dollywaggon Pike (map point 9, NY346131). From the top, long views down Grisedale open up and it’s here you’re going. First, the zigzags down the southern flank of ‘Dolly’ must be negotiated, before you reach Grisedale Tarn (map point 10, NY349123). On the days when it’s warm enough for a little wild swim, the north-east end of the tarn makes for a convenient location. There are even one or two large boulders to get changed behind, although you always get the feeling in the Lake District that someone might be watching!
Grisedale Beck flows out of Grisedale Tarn, down into Grisedale. The path down heads to the north-north-east on the northern bank of the stream. Once past the Ruthwaite climbing hut you get to a junction in the paths (map point 11, NY357137). Our route stays on the northern side of the river, all the way until level ground is met. A series of footpaths take you north again, and over a shoulder in the fell, the final bit of ‘up’ before reaching Glenridding once more.