Buttermere, Lake District
It’s not often that places are as idyllic as they sound but Buttermere exceeds its name, with all the implied charm of a pastoral valley tempered by the craggy fells that surround it. Most notably Fleetwith Pike, the prow of which stands over the water like the inverted hull of a mighty ship. Its slate-scattered top swoops around to Haystacks, High Pike, High Stile and Red Crag, all forming a knuckled buttress above the glimmering water.
Lone trees, woodland and green pastures soften the panorama. To the south-east is a row of much-photographed Scots pines, known as the Sentinel trees. At the northern shore, you might hear the three-note tweet of nesting sandpipers. The photographers’ favourite ‘Lone Tree’ is even marked on Google Maps. In early autumn and late summer, the slopes are cloaked in purple heather, and the green of the trees and bracken turns to mingled golds and reds.
This is one of the smaller lakes in the District, just 2km long, 570m wide and 23m deep, but Buttermere was once much larger, forming one long post-glacial lake with Crummock Water. Rock fall and sediment washing down from the fells gradually built up between the two, but both still have excellent water clarity, good for people and wildlife. One species which lives here is the Ice Age relict fish Arctic char. Brown trout and salmon swim through it to spawn in the higher becks, signs of otters are often found at the shore, and freshwater sponges cling to submerged cliffs.
420m higher up, Wainwright chose Innominate Tarn on Haystacks as the place to scatter his ashes. One of the best circular routes to it climbs up from Gatesgarth and descends Fleetwith Pike as the sun sets over the water. It’s pretty, yes, but Buttermere is also a place of hillwalking heritage. GRID REF: NY182158