Trotternish Ridge
DAY 1 1
NG463709 Start at Flodigarry. There are lay-bys near the start area where you can park, but I would recommend trying to leave a car in Portree. If you stay at Torvaig Campsite, you should be able to leave the car and finish the route there. This makes a huge difference if you’re pooped at the end and can’t be bothered getting the bus back up. If you’re going to do it in one day, get the earliest bus, otherwise don’t stress too much about getting started early as you will want to arrive at your camp spot relatively late in the day. To start the route, follow the path for Loch Langaig and climb uphill until the path crosses a stile and peters out into more of a track above Loch Hasco. Continue past a third, small loch until you reach the steep cliffs. You can divert left for a nose at the Quirang here, but the route turns right and grazes uphill (north) to Fir Bhreugach.
2
NG448703 This is where you start to follow the ridge proper, walking generally south, all the way to Portree, following the shape of the ridge. There are small diversions here and there but just keep the ridge close to your left-hand side. There are no constructed paths for the whole route. This first section is grassy and gentle and follows the skyline above the Quirang. After Meall na Suiramach, you start to descend in a south-western line. The track here can be very slippery and occasionally hard to follow. It is also steep in parts, so take care. Not long after a square stile (which isn’t on the map), there is a dog-leg immediately north of the car park across the road, which can be easy to miss. Ultimately, once you are pretty much in line with the car park, head to its left edge.
3
NG439679 Cross the road and pass the car park on its left, crossing a small stream. A water filter is essential for this route, as you need to make use of several small water points along the way. I passed several but in hot weather you can’t rely on many of them. Much of the water is not flowing, so can’t be trusted without some form of cleaning. This following section is a good uphill slog and briefly leaves the ridge as it approaches Dun Dubh before rejoining it for a steep descent. This is the general character of the whole route.
4
NG454630 Approaching Beinn Edra, the track becomes quite vague and loose in parts, passing near to some very steep ground. It is worth paying extra attention to where you are walking here. After Beinn Edra, the route follows yet more ups and downs that will test the legs. You shouldn’t really be diverting from the ridge by too much. There are one or two pools of water along the way. Just after Flasvein, cross a partially collapsed wall and follow it leftward uphill. Start to think about collecting some water for camp. A spare, collapsible water bottle can be handy here, so you can keep your drinking water separate.
5
NG468585 The bealach between Creag a Lain and Sgurr a Mhadaidh Ruaidh is an ideal place to camp. There are several sheltered aspects and water further downhill, if you didn’t manage to collect any along the way. There is also a small spring at NG467582, just above the left-most fork of the steam on OS maps. This could be quite difficult to find! Otherwise, just latch onto one of the streams. Again, just be aware that in high summer these could be dry. The general rule should be to make good use of any available water along the route.
DAY 2 6
NG468585 Top up the water. Set off southward. It’s worth taking the short detour to the summit of Sgurr a Mhadaidh Ruaidh for some early morning (or evening) photos. This second half of the route feels tougher, especially if you go for a single-day attempt. It starts off much like the first day but ends with a mega heather bash! Starting off south from Sgurr a Mhadaidh Ruaidh is pleasant. An initial climb leads to Baca Ruadh and a wander southward across the plateau, past a possible water spot. In poor visibility this could be a tricky section.
7
NG471560
When descending to Bealach Hartaval, avoid going directly south, which is steep, awkward and slippery in the wet. Head south-west for about 150m, which feels like it’s taking you off-route but then switchback left and cut diagonally down the slope. Slog uphill to Hartaval and then down to Bealach a’ Chuirn, leaving the ridge to go slightly to the right. Aim for the centre of the bealach. Bealach a’ Chuirn is boggy. It looks like the ascent is easier off to the left but it leads you near a steep drop. Instead, aim dead-centre of the slope, keeping slightly right of the obvious stream. Either way, the section approaching the
Storr is steep and tough. Best to just get stuck into it and get it done! When the slope eases off, aim left as you approach the summit to return to the ridge.
8
NG496540 When you leave the summit of the Storr, a track leads directly down to Bealach Beag. Try not to take the direct line, but keep left and stay close to the edge or you will make the mistake I made and potentially miss some of the best views of the Old Man! After (hopefully) getting the views and reaching the level ground, the terrain changes character quite significantly and feels much more ‘Scottish’ with rough moorland, tussocks and bog for the duration. Further ahead lies an obvious looking peak (Ben Dearg), which has a steep looking barrier of rock right across its length. Keep near the ridge and head straight toward it. It can be difficult to remain on any tracks.
9
NG478506 As you approach the steepening, cut right (north-west) below it. Contour along the base of the steepening for about 200m to where the angle eases off and the hill can be breached. There are a few broken, loose tracks through scree and rock where care is needed. You can keep heading north-west until you are comfortable moving up, but don’t go too far. You need to
switch back direction and head left (south-east) to the summit of Ben Dearg. Cross the fence near the summit. Avoiding going to the top leads you to cross the fence in awkward ground with no stile.
10
NG479501 The final stretch looks easy on paper but it’s some of the roughest terrain of the route! Head south to A’ Chorra Bheinn. After this you just have to fight your way south-east back to the road, crossing a few fences along the way. It’s difficult to locate any stiles. When fence hopping, cross near solid posts and don’t damage the boundaries. As you near the end, it may be tempting to bail off left and get straight to the road. Don’t bother. It’s steep, wooded and crosses a river. Continuing through the heather, you’ll eventually be channeled to a farmer’s road. The track to get back on the main road is near the houses and across a marked stile. Reaching tarmac will, for once, be heavenly. If you didn’t leave a car here, Portree is 2.5km further along the road.