Hallowed hills
St Brendan on Brandon
Throughout history, people have often felt closer to their Divine Other on top of a hill. St Brendan of Ireland is known as a navigator, who may have reached the Americas (or, on the other hand, may not have) and is the patron saint of ‘elderly adventurers’.
So why did St Brendan set up a prayer hut on top of Brandon Mountain? Maybe because it’s one of Great Britain’s finest ridgewalks. More likely because of its great views over the Atlantic. Then again, he could have been moving in on a site already dedicated to the non-Christian Celtic gods.
A pilgrimage trail, the 18km Cosán na Naomh, leads to the mountain, and the path up it is marked with crosses. Especially naughty sinners used to climb the hill on their knees, or with peas in their socks – dried ones, presumably, rather than fresh.
More holy lands
Cadair Idris is a favourite hillwalk of Gwyn ap Nudd, Lord of the Celtic Underworld, and his red-eared hunting dogs. Bivvy on its summit to wake as either a poet or a madman, or both.
Glastonbury Tor rises 158m above the ancient abbey, New Age shops and a distinct waft of incense. It’s sacred also to astrologers, who see it as the Aquarius of a vast landscape zodiac.
Holy Island (Lindisfarne) marks the end of a short but good long distance path dedicated to St Cuthbert.
On Iona? Take time to visit peaceful Coracle Bay, where St Columba landed, and Carn Cùl ri Eirinn (74m), the hill at the back of Ireland, where he looked back towards his homeland.
Croagh Patrick (764m), in County Mayo, is sacred to St Patrick (obviously) but a less interesting hillwalk than Brandon Mountain.
“THROUGHOUT HISTORY, PEOPLE HAVE OFTEN FELT CLOSER TO THEIR DIVINE OTHER ON TOP OF A HILL”