Return to the forest
DAY 3
NN939990 The Wells of Dee are, at 1220m, the highest source of any major river in the UK. From your campsite here head south-west to a 1227m spot-height marked on OS Explorer maps and continue on to meet the head of a small stream after 300m. Follow the burn downhill on the left (south) side for 900m to meet a stalker’s path that crosses it at the top of the cliffs, marked by a cairn. The views of the furrowed cliffs on the other side and the thin slice of dark water below are breathtaking.
NN925979 The path slants north downhill, crossing the northernmost of two parallel waterfalls. Here begins the sketchiest part of the route: hair-raisingly steep, precarious and muddy. Great care is needed on this, thankfully, brief section. There are few other obstacles on the path which continues, less steeply now, down Coire Dhondail and out to Gleann Eanaich on a terrace path through heather. At Allt Coire Bogha-cloiche, it turns downhill crossing the burn below a lovely little waterfall and then dropping to meet the main, gravelled track. It’s worth a brief detour left to the shore of Loch Eanaich, with its white pebbled beach and intimidating cliffs.
NN916998 From here, retrace your steps back to the gravelled path. This is a popular MTB route, broad and relatively flat. After the long narrow path, the opportunity to switch off here may be welcome. Follow it along beside the river to a footbridge. On the other side of this is a grassy little flattening perfect for a break.
NH923043 Continue north and where the path branches, stay downhill. From here on, the route gets more interesting, soon re-entering the old Caledonian forest with its ancient Scots pines, gorse, heather and juniper. 3.8km after the path splits, you’ll reach a junction. Stay on the rightmost path to soon meet a crossroads at the Lochan Deo.
NH916078 At the crossroads by Lochan Deo, turn east (right) on a wavering trajectory and good track east. Cross the Am Beanaidh on the Cairngorm Club footbridge and follow the path alongside the river. This is a beautiful section and after such a long day, with the end in sight, it’s worth taking several small breaks by the tumbling water in the shade of the trees. After 1.3km you’ll reach a junction of paths.
NH938075 This is the same junction that you turned off to head into the Lairig Ghru on day one, and from here on you’re retracing your steps back to Loch Morlich. Keep ahead on the path which travels north-east to rejoin the wider track back to the footbridge, crossing it back to the lakeside path and car park.