THE SOUTH WEST COAST PATH
Paddy Dillon’s Walking the South West Coast Path guidebook is a must-read for anyone planning to walk England’s longest waymarked trail. Here’s a taster of it...
The South West Coast Path is the longest of Britain’s National Trails, measuring a staggering 1014km (630 miles). It is not just a long walk, but an astounding and varied experience, based on the paths trodden around cliffs and coves by generations of coastguards.
No other stretch of British coastline compares for scenic splendour, interest, history, heritage, accessibility and provision of facilities all rolled into one. A fit and dedicated long-distance walker would take a month to walk the South West Coast Path. The current record, set by Kristian Morgan in September 2020, stands at 10 days 12 hours 6 minutes. Others are happy to enjoy the experience, savour the delights of the trail, and take two months or more.
Hardy backpackers happily carry a tent, sleeping bag and cooking equipment, while others prefer to mix youth hostels with B&B accommodation. Some walkers prefer a luxurious approach, staying in splendid hotels while sampling local seafood menus. The South West Coast Path appeals to all types, but remember that many facilities are only open through the summer.
Individual approaches vary. Some walkers crave to cover the whole trail in a single expedition, while others take a weekend here and there, and make an occasional week-long trip, to complete the distance over a year or two. You must walk within your limitations, covering distances that are comfortable for you, choosing accommodation that suits your tastes and pocket. Allow time to visit museums and heritage centres, or to observe birds along the cliff coasts. Given the nature and complexity of the coast, it makes sense not to rush, but to enjoy the experience.
How long will it take?
The suggested itinerary covers 45 days, but if three achievable itineraries were offered for tough, average and easygoing walkers, they might cover 35, 45 and 65 days. It’s unlikely that any walker would follow a set schedule, and almost everyone will choose a comfortable distance for them each day.
When should I walk it?
For many, the biggest hurdle is finding the time to complete the whole of the South West Coast Path in a single trek. You need to be able to put your home life on hold for several weeks! It might be better to spread the journey over three or four trips.
July and August are busy. Crowds will be much reduced in May, June, September and October – accommodation is easier to obtain, while most places remain open (check seasonal ferries). If walking from late October to early April expect many places to be closed, and some ferries to be absent.
Where can I pick up supplies along the way?
In the peak summer season there’s no shortage of food and drink along the South West Coast Path. In fact, backpackers often regret carrying cooking equipment as they walk past frequent offers of pasties, chips and cream teas.
Where can I stay?
There is abundant accommodation, but think carefully a day or two in advance to ensure you have a roof over your head. There are long and difficult stretches of coast that seem remote from habitation, and some places where lodgings are restricted to only one or two. Even in the big towns, it can be difficult to obtain a bed for the night in the peak season. Check luggagetransfers.co.uk, as they provide luggage services for the whole SWCP but also list around a thousand accommodation options on the route.
What do I need to know about tides & ferries?
The Path is broken into a number of stretches by several long, narrow, tidal rivers, especially on the southern stages. Ferries have to be used to cross these rivers, and as these are part of the South West Coast Path experience it shouldn’t be seen as ‘cheating’. It is possible to walk around the estuaries, but this may take several hours – or even days – to reach a point that can be gained by a ferry in mere minutes. Be warned that while some ferries operate all year, others are seasonal or irregular.
Take careful note of any stretches of the route that run along beaches or marshes, which can bring progress to a halt at high tide. Usually, this might only be for an hour, but in some places it could be longer. If walking along beaches while the tide is rising, always ensure that you can escape inland if necessary. Always make sure you check tidetimes.org.uk before you set off.
How is easy is the trail to follow?
The South West Coast Path is a National Trail, so it’s very well signposted and waymarked from start to finish. Signposts won’t always say ‘South West Coast Path’ though, but may simply state ‘Coast Path’. And waymarker posts may carry nothing more than a direction arrow and an acorn symbol. It’s often the case that route-finding is more difficult in urban areas than it is on a remote stretch of coast!