Stars of the shoal
VICKY LISSAMAN embarks on a space odyssey exploring a wide expanse of Norfolk’s attractions
WITH big skies, wideopen countryside and a coast that is lined with sandy beaches, there’s nowhere quite like Norfolk. From crabbing in the creeks and kite-flying in the dunes, to strolling through peaceful flint-built villages, simple pleasures are the star attraction.
With plenty of space to go around, the only crowds you’re likely to encounter here are the swirling flocks of geese, waders and ducks.
We combined four relaxing nights at Norfolk Woods Resort & Spa, just 20 minutes inland from King’s Lynn, with day trips to the seaside, scenic walks and family fun – the perfect pick-me-up during the October half-term.
The lodge park, in Pentney just off the A47, is a glamorous choice for those looking for quality accommodation and five-star facilities.
We stayed in a stylish twobedroom Oxburgh Premier lodge, which was spotlessly clean on arrival. Its creative design meant there was a place for everything, a covered boot rack outside for muddy wellies, a hallway with hanging space and seating for tying shoelaces, even a wine fridge.
The main living space was open plan, with dining area and kitchen with island, fridge-freezer, dishwasher and washer-dryer.
Both bedrooms had TVs, and the master had a walk-through wardrobe to an en-suite shower room.
Out on the decking we had a sunken hot tub, screened by frosted glass. Temperatures had dropped to single figures when we were there, so slipping your shoulders into the steaming bubbles felt like a toasty hug after blustery walks by the North Sea. Flick on the colour-changing lighting after dark and you’re a VIP guest at your own private pool party!
Check-in had been swift in reception, with staff wearing masks. Hand-sanitiser was available at dispensers dotted inside and out.
Due to Covid restrictions, facilities needed to be booked in advance. We reserved an hour-long session at the indoor pool and waterplay zone. When we arrived, we were allocated a third of the pool to ourselves.
Guests are advised to reserve tables in the restaurant, which serves a selection of pub-style food, or order meals to be delivered. There’s also a spa with a sauna and steam room, a playground and archery. Football on the astro turf, cricket and the outdoor splash park will be back when restrictions are lifted.
Craving the salty air of the seaside, we headed for
Hunstanton, an elegant Victorian resort with wide sandy beaches, unique striped cliffs, amusement arcades and gift shops.
The nostalgic aroma of fish and chips floating on the breeze was enough to stop us in our tracks, and we grabbed a table at Fishers restaurant, which has been frying since the 1950s.
Our order was cooked to perfection; the cod bright white and chunky, batter crispy, the mushy peas delicately flavoured with mint. Tea was served in a generous silver pot with a jug of fresh milk. There are interesting additions to the menu too, such as a foot-long battered sausage, spam fritters and calamari.
We then made our way to the Hunstanton Sea Life centre, on the seafront. With creatures ranging from moon jellies in illuminated tanks to giant turtles in big pools, plus penguins and otters outside, there is a lot to be wowed by here.
Interactive stuff such quizzes, a scavenger hunt with a map, a place for handling sea creatures and a pirate-themed play area kept things interesting and engaging for the kids
We emerged, blinking into the light, just as a blazing, wintry sunset was exploding over the sea.
Although Hunstanton is on England’s east coast, it actually faces west, so there’s a chance of colourful drama over The Wash, where Norfolk meets Lincolnshire.
We couldn’t get enough of the coast, so the next day we ventured further up to Brancaster, which sits on the North Norfolk Coastal Path and is made up of two villages, Brancaster and Brancaster Staithe.
We used the car park behind the dunes, then set off over the beautifully soft sand and down to the water’s edge, razor clams crunching underfoot.
Heading west, we unravelled our kite and let it soar in the wind against a backdrop of an ice-blue autumn sky.
Noses and fingers chilled and rosy, we piled back into the car and took the A149 past gastropubs with twinkly-lit beer gardens, before stopping off at Drove Orchards.
Set in 350 acres of farmland, wild meadows and orchards with 160 varieties of apples and pears, there’s a farm shop, fishmonger, pizza yurt, fish and chip shop, boutiques, plant nursery, cider barn, play area, even luxury glamping.
At Gurneys fish shop there’s everything you could dream of for an awesome fish supper, including freshly boiled Brancaster lobsters, shucked Thornham oysters, a gleaming array of wet fish, homemade fishcakes and prawn curry. We bought Cromer crab and prawns smoked on-site.
On our final day, we drove to the pretty harbour town of Wells-nextthe-Sea, about half an hour from Norfolk Woods, between the famous Holkham Beach and tranquil Blakeney Point. Packed with colourful gift shops, Staithe Street leads down to the front, with its landmark granary dating to 1904.
At the quayside, we couldn’t resist that great East Anglian tradition of crabbing, tossing our lines over the railings in the hope of pulling out a beady-eyed prize.
Many others had the same idea, but our bucket was half-full in half an hour.
With our nippy friends safely back in the water, we took a stroll down the long, elevated path between the boats in the harbour and the sheltered salt marshes, to the pine-backed beach with its painted beach huts on stilts.
This area is part of the largest coastal nature reserve in England and Wales, attracting wading birds, avocets, marsh harriers and winter geese.
But beware of the tide, it comes in at a rapid rate, as does the wash of passing boats. One minute you could be enjoying a paddle, the next a wave is washing over your wellies, completely filling them up – and it’s a long walk back to the car-park with wet feet.
But who really cares if your socks are a bit soggy when you can jump straight into a steaming hot tub when you get back?
A sunny seaside fix and starry nights in the bubbles will leave you with a warm glow for months.