Step back in time
PAT WOODING DELIGHTS IN SCENIC SUFFOLK, A COUNTY STEEPED
SUN, sea and… Suffolk. Yes, there are great ways to enjoy your staycation and it doesn’t have to break the bank, starting with the quaint town of Bury St Edmunds which has much to offer – history, great hotels and food, and the Greene King brewery.
Everything is within a short walking distance so you can pack a lot into a long weekend here.
Best place to start is the Abbey Gardens, an award-winning 14-acre park on the site of a monastery built here nearly 1,400 years ago.
You can explore the ruins which gave the town its name when King Edmund the Martyr was buried here in 903AD. The legend says he was killed in a hail of Danish arrows and beheaded for good measure but miracles began to happen after a wolf stole the head.
There’s an aviary with a variety of stunning canaries and other birds, and a sensory garden full of fragrant flowers and trees. It was originally created for blind people but is a pleasant place for all to enjoy.
Alongside the gardens stands the more modern cathedral which is well worth a visit. You can see the tomb of Henry VIII’s sister or book a tower tour and climb the 202step spiral staircase to be rewarded with spectacular views from the top.
After a busy stroll through a millennium of history, we retired for cocktails at the bar of our hotel.
The ivy-clad Angel Hotel is ideally placed just a few yards from the entrance to Abbey Gardens. This 18th century coaching inn has been tastefully upgraded inside to offer all the modern comforts, while retaining its olde worlde charm.
Charles Dickens stayed here many times and immortalised it in his book The Pickwick Papers.
Our spacious suite had a fully equipped modern bathroom with rain shower and giant free-standing copper bath. The huge double bed provided a perfect night’s sleep for pleasantly weary sightseers.
Dinner in the hotel’s relaxed restaurant, The Eaterie, was a treat with a varied menu and friendly but efficient staff. We opted for a champagne aperitif, crab starter and fish main course – all cooked to perfection.
For breakfast, try the freshly cooked Suffolk Grill if you fancy a really hearty start to the day.
There’s lots more to do in Bury St Edmunds without having to travel too far. If the weather’s a bit iffy, head to Moyse’s Hall Museum, where there’s always something to see for all age groups. We spent a couple of hours exploring modern art by Banksy and others at the Moments exhibition, which runs until September 30. (moyseshall. org, adult £12/child £6).
If you want to venture further afield, there’s a wealth of fascinating places to visit without having to travel too far. Take a 20 minute drive to the picture postcard village of Lavenham, filled with glorious buildings – from crooked houses, half-timbered pubs and quaint tearooms, some of which were used to create a fictional village in the Harry Potter movies.
Just three miles from Bury St Edmunds stands Ickworth House, an aristocratic paradise with acres of surrounding countryside to explore.
We spent a couple of hours on a nature trail to build up an appetite for lunch in the café. There’s bags of history in this building, now run by the National Trust, including the colourful past of the Hervey family who set up home here in 1432.
Back in town, head for The Guildhall, home to the only surviving Royal Observer Corps Second World War operations room in the country.
You’ll be spoilt for choice when it comes to food and drink, as Bury St Edmunds is full of welcoming pubs and restaurants. We loved it at Gastrono-me, an ideal place for any meal of the day. The grub is tasty, healthy and imaginative – with inspiration from Mexico, India, Vietnam and the Middle East. If you leave enough room for a dessert, try the Boozy Knickerbocker Glory.
No visit to Bury St Edmunds is complete without a tour of the Greene King brewery that has been on its present site for two centuries. A walk, talk and tasting tour costs £18 (greeneking.co.uk/our-beers/ brewery-tours-beer-cafe).
And that just about sums up our wonderful weekend – walking, talking and tasting. There’s no better way to enjoy a break in beautiful Bury.
Dickens stayed at the Angel Hotel and mentioned it in Pickwick Papers