SLEIGH TO GO
JOHN FITZPATRICK HAS A REALLY COOL TIME AS HE TASTES THE THRILLING SKI CULTURE
CAREERING down mountains and sliding into turns at high speed... this is what the French Alps are all about.
But I’m not skiing. I’m hurtling around a professional bobsleigh track.
That morning I had stepped onto the narrow streets of Plagne 1800, a tiny mining village turned ski resort, nicknamed “the nest”, because of its high altitude and quiet ambience.
With its snowcovered lanes and chalets, the town resembles a life-size gingerbread village. And while there are many miles of well-connected ski runs to explore, my first port of call had to be the bobsleigh track.
Armed with a little Dutch courage from one of the cosy alpine bars, I took the short bus ride from Plagne 1800 to the only remaining operational bobtrack in France.
Built for the Albertville Olympics in 1992, the course is still used for pro events including the Bobsleigh World Cup, where Team GB recorded a new lap record just days after my own pathetic attempt.
For adrenaline junkies, they offer solo skeleton and speed luge circuits, but for beginners taking on the 19 iced bends there is only one option, the Bob raft – a heavily armoured bobsleigh tank that steers and brakes for you.
Zooming around the narrow, twisted tracks, you can hear the crunch of ice beneath the blades as you fly up and down the banks.
It is over in a flash, just a minute and 30 seconds, but more than worth the €48 to take part.
Heart still thumping and slightly dazed, I headed back to Chalet Florence, my home for the week. Ski Beat offers wooden chalets, perfect for holidaying as a large family party or for adventurers who want to meet like-minded skiers.
This chalet has room for 19 guests with a living room and dining area, a large snowy balcony and windows framing the spectacular mountain views. Some of the more luxurious chalets have saunas and hot tubs too. Guests here can look forward to the hospitality of Ski Beat’s fantastic chalet hosts. Expect a cooked breakfast every morning and fresh baguettes and homemade cake waiting for you in the afternoon. Then there’s the evening threecourse meal (vegan and vegetarianfriendly) with endless French wine. Ski Beat handles the flights, coach transfers, lift passes, ski school and equipment hire, but there’s no need for skis and poles if you want to explore the largest ski region in France.
Thanks to a free and efficient bus system, you won’t risk any broken limbs. The area’s snow-sure locations vary from pastoral villages to luxury resorts, full of designer shopping, decadent restaurants and lively bars.
Skiers of all abilities will find miles of runs to suit their abilities. Happy little blue runs will take you wherever you need to go. The region is so well connected, you can ski across the valley from resort to resort with the same lift pass or cross the entire mountainous realm on blue runs, perfect for beginners.
A week’s lessons, two years before, seemed like a lifetime ago. But this time, rather than spend my hours re-learning to snow plough, I wanted to get away from the training slopes to explore the mountains and everything they had to offer.
Whether you’re a fan of off-piste adventuring or a nervous first-timer, the joys of rustic mountain-top restaurants and rowdy après ski parties cannot be missed.
Dotted alongside snowy mountain runs, you can grab a hot chocolate and chips on the piste while enjoying the winter sun or dance on the tables in your ski gear with an Aperol spritz. For epic party nights, head for La Folie Douce and La Bergerie Bar. The Alps also offer activi
ties for those who are not compelled to strap on planks of wood and zoom down mountains. These same resorts have spas, decadent Savoyard eating experiences and snowcentric fun of every kind.
Adventure-seekers can take a ride across the mountains on the back of a dog sled and there are plenty of walking routes for those who prefer a stroll.
My own itinerary consisted of a visit to the Magic Pool, an outdoor swimming pool heated to 30 degrees and surrounded by snow with views of the slopes. I also booked a deep tissue massage from Massage Me, whose therapists come to your chalet.
The region’s cuisine is designed for long, relaxing dinners and there are plenty of bars and pubs in town.
By sundown even our little village was bustling with the après-ski scene. The most spirited bar around was La Mine Bar, an atmospheric mine-themed tavern with live music.
On this trip filled with high-speed thrills, I discovered you don’t need a penchant for the piste to make the most of the mountains.