Liquid as­sets

strike it rich with the cur­rent fond­ness for fat-washed cock­tails

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as the flavour pro­file of cock­tails be­comes more com­plex, and in­gre­di­ents lists start to sound like three-course meals, tech­niques are de­vel­op­ing to bring more culi­nary raw ma­te­ri­als into a liquid state. one such method is fat­wash­ing, which has be­come a way to beef up bev­er­ages with­out tex­tu­rally clog­ging the palate. Bring­ing all the com­fort­ing, rich savour of but­ter, co­conut, peanut but­ter, ba­con fat or foie gras into a glass, the tech­nique pays dues to the per­fume in­dus­try and its age old meth­ods for ex­tract­ing aroma from oil with al­co­hol. it en­tered the drinks in­dus­try around 2007 when Don lee, of new york cocktail bar pdt, put but­ter-washed rum and coke to­gether for his cin­ema high­ball. es­sen­tially, a fatty in­gre­di­ent is added to a spirit and then frozen so that the hard layer of fat can be skimmed off and the re­main­ing spirit re­tains the flavour. Fed­erico pasian and his team at lon­don’s Quaglino’s are ex­per­i­ment­ing with tech­niques such as coat­ing the in­side of a bot­tle with co­conut but­ter for a ne­groni, so that the liquid in con­tact with the solid but­ter ac­quires creami­ness and aroma, while at the roo­sevelt room in austin, texas, the sil­ver mead­ows cocktail fea­tures foie gras-washed st ger­main. our favourite cocktail fat, how­ever, re­mains but­ter. pair­ing per­fectly with rum, lemon, ap­ple and spices, cock­tails such as the Baked ap­ple (with brown but­ter bour­bon, sherry, ap­ple but­ter, spices, amaro, orange liqueur and bit­ters), served at the Bon­nie in as­to­ria, new york, are top of our wish­list this sea­son. pdt­nyc.com; quagli­nos-restau­rant.co.uk; theroo­sevel­t­roomatx.com; the­bon­nie.com

‘Rev­o­lu­tion’ glasses, from €73 for set of two; ‘Ra­sori’ glass, €73 for set of two, all by ffer­rone De­sign

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