All that jazz
Womenswear gets a sparkling review this season
Integrating jewelled details into clothing has given a dazzling uplift to adornment this season. Heritage has been key, with Bottega Veneta drawing on Milanese goldsmithing tradition, integrating a chunky chain into a soft knitted neckline. Meanwhile, Daniel Roseberry’s sophomore collection for Schiaparelli reinterpreted the house’s signature keyhole motif as a dramatic dress closure. ‘I was really inspired by the feel of Alberto Giacometti textures, and interpreted the keyhole through that lens,’ he says. At Lanvin, Bruno Sialelli was inspired by the monkey motifs created by Lanvin’s founder Jeanne Lanvin and her long-time collaborator, interior designer Armandalbert Rateau, for Paris’ Théâtre Daunou in 1921. These curly-tailed creatures sit on the lapels of a tailored jacket as animalistic arbiters of the label’s history.