BURGER BAR
Popl, Copenhagen
In May last year, as Denmark was emerging from its first lockdown, chef René Redzepi announced the arrival of the Noma burger on his Instagram with an image of a beef patty and bun. ‘Before we reopen Noma as we know it, we will transform into a no-reservation, drop-in only, wine and burger bar,’ he wrote. ‘We want to be open for all. We need to heal, so let’s have a glass and a burger, you’re all invited.’ The pop-up was a roaring success, making Noma more of a household name than ever, and the experience inspired him to give the Noma burger a permanent home. Named Popl, after the Latin word ‘populus’, meaning community of people, the waterside burger bar opened in Christianshavn in December, replacing restaurant 108 (which won critical acclaim but couldn’t weather the global pandemic). Popl’s playful graphic identity was created by New York creative studio Gretel, while the interior design was entrusted to local architects Spacon & X, who had caught Redzepi‘s eye with a ramen bar they’d designed a few years ago. Spacon & X partner Malene Hvidt wanted to create a warm, friendly ambience that would call to mind Japanese izakayas and American diners. From 108, she retained the exposed concrete pillars and brickwork that referenced the space’s industrial past, as well as the terrazzo floor, but everything else was custom-made, with help from manufacturing partner Holmris B8. This included wood panels on the main wall, with slatted areas that resemble abstracted burger ingredients, and a ‘plant bridge’ suspended across the concrete pillars. Spacon & X also managed to develop an original range of furniture within a very tight time frame, virtually collaborating with Frankfurt-based furniture brand E15. Chairs feature exposed joinery that emphasises their handmade nature; bistro tables sport tabletops of Richlite (a recycled paper and bio resin composite); and semicircular dining tables can be joined together to accommodate bigger groups. All the pieces have been made in brown core ash, sourced from the Odenwald Forest and finished with a matt clear lacquer that accentuates the grain. The restaurant group is renowned for its attention to detail and this is just as evident in the food: the burger patties are made from organic Danish beef (from Wadden Sea National Park, where the animals keep the grass low to ensure a richer insect life that benefits the birds), and there are vegetarian and vegan options, made from quinoa inoculated with tempeh spores and left to ferment overnight. Brushed with a glaze of yeast garum, fava bean shoryu and smoked vegan butter, there is flavour enough to win over even the most ardent carnivore. Also on the menu is a chewy cookie that comes apart gently, as showcased in a tantalising Instagram video post. And for those wanting home comforts, all of this is available for takeaway, too. * 108 Strandgade, Copenhagen, poplburger.com