Newspaper Wearable art; perfectly sized bags; São Paulo retail; Kyoto confectionery; and Radnor’s New York design showcase
We like to wear our art on our sleeve
For S/S21, a host of menswear designers used clothing as a canvas, interpreting the gestural strokes of figurative portraiture and the globulous bulges of ceramic forms within their folds. At Dior, Kim Jones was compelled by the bold brushstrokes of Ghanaian portraitist Amoako Boafo, who had his first solo show at Mariane Ibrahim Gallery in Chicago last autumn. In a tactile and tonal twist, a figure inspired by Boafo’s oil on canvas Yellow Dress has been translated into an intarsia motif on a cashmere roll-neck. Jonathan Anderson showcased the work of Catalan illustrator Pol Anglada in his eponymous brand’s spring collection. A fiery knit-weave cardigan features a brow-furrowed face, inspired by images in Anglada’s father’s comic book collection. At Loewe, where Anderson is also creative director, the designer nodded to the figurative works of Paul Cadmus, whose portraits paid homage to the male form. A jacquard wool jumper translates the egg tempera brushstrokes of Cadmus’ The Inventor into fabric. Meanwhile, at Berluti, the oozy, molten forms of ceramicist Brian Rochefort inspired Kris Van Assche, who transformed the colourful glazes and lava-like textures of the La-based sculptor’s pieces into prismatic jumpers. Their tactile fabrications evoke the appearance of Rochefort’s works, which seem to overflow with dribbling glazes.