Six new labels fashioning the future

A new take on old traditions helps these six young fashion labels come to the fore

01 MAXIMILIAN

A tribute to his Trinidadian roots and selfdescribed mix of ‘West Indian elegance and sex appeal’, Maximilian Davis’ breakout collection featured cut-out dresses and silky shirts inspired by the 19th-century carnival outfits of Trinidad and Tobago. His latest offering, pictured here, is inspired by his grandma’s Sunday best closet and 1960s space fashion. Originally from Manchester, the London College of Fashion graduate launched his label after having worked with Grace Wales Bonner. Expect more ‘Black elegance’ from him very soon. @_mvximilian_

Hood, price on request; dress, £965; arm warmers, price on request, all by Maximilian

02 ERNEST W BAKER

The Portugal-based brand Ernest W Baker’s latest 1970s-inspired collection features 14 offbeat looks that blend Italian tailoring, Portuguese craftsmanship and American style. Having met while studying in Milan, its founders Inês Amorim and Reid Baker (the brand is named after the latter’s grandfather) are now based in Amorim’s hometown in northern Portugal; their designs, including this hand-crocheted scarf with red roses and white trench coat, are locally made in factories and workshops near their studio. @ernest_w_baker

Coat, €1,200; scarf, €325, both by Ernest W Baker

03 STEFAN COOKE

London-based designer Stefan Cooke and professional pattern-cutter Jake Burt both studied at Central Saint Martins, launching their menswear line in 2017. Inspired by outfits they wore as teenagers, their signature creations include both cut-out pieces such as this slashed Argyle sweater and woollen cape, as well as perfectly tailored coats, thigh-revealing kilts, and tweed bomber jackets. With its fun twist on ‘boring’ clothing, it’s no wonder the British brand is enjoying both critical and commercial success. @stefan_cooke

Cape, £653; jumper, £594; trousers, price on request, all by Stefan Cooke

04 RENÉ SCHEIBENBAUER

The Austrian fashion designer and Central Saint Martins alumnus René Scheibenbauer uses his designs to create spaces for diversity, performance and queer bodies. Inspired by childhood dance lessons, his focus on the garments’ movement and interaction, as well what he calls ‘emotional dressing’ – how clothes make their wearers feel – results in precisely cut outfits that are meant as total experiences. Both practical and elegant, his pieces feature fabrics that drape beautifully, but also extremely useful hoods, pockets and drawstrings. @renescheibenbauer

Dress, £1,360, by René Scheibenbauer. Shoes, £525, by Malone Souliers

05 COMMISSION

New York-based designers Huy Luong, Dylan Cao and Jin Kay launched Commission in 2018 with a womenswear collection inspired by their mothers’ 1980s work outfits. Now the trio have designed their first menswear offering, this time looking back to the 1970s to update Far East classics such as silk wool polo shirts, boxy ‘Communist’ suits and satchel bags. Highlights include this gabardine coat with a curved flap, as well as a fuzzy pastel-pink cashmere jumper and a leopard-print shirt with a plunging neckline. @commission_official

Coat, £1,290; shirt, £500, both by Commission

06 TALIA BYRE

A graduate of Central Saint Martins, Talia Lipkin-connor launched her label after a pandemic-induced bout of introspection. The brand name nods to the family’s role in building the Lucinda Byre boutique in Liverpool in the 1960s. Featuring hand-dyed midi skirts and deconstructed knitwear with exposed seams, her autumn collection of monochrome looks brings a much-needed sense of comfort and warmth. It also features a range of fabrics from local suppliers, and techniques that reflect her family’s long fashion tradition. @talia_byre

Jumper (worn as head wrap), £485; top, £465; skirt, £540, all by Talia Byre

For stockists, see page 136