Wanderlust Travel Magazine (UK)
ALGARVE
WALK A STRETCH OF WILD PORTUGAL
Tread pilgrim trails, wildlife-filled dunes and wind-beaten coastlines along the Algarve’s web of fine walking routes
M ention the Algarve and, thanks to its buttery sands and wind-sculpted bays, most people will conjure classic images of that clichéd trio: sun, sea and sand. However, those who know the area understand that there’s far more to it than just pristine beaches.
This is a region packed with history, wildlife and amazing trails, so make sure you pack your hiking boots because its craggy cliffs, rocky coves and storied coastline were made for walking. Take your time to ramble around the region’s fringes and you will quickly find that the Algarve is a wanderer’s dream.
COASTAL HISTORY
Head to the Algarve’s western periphery for a truly wild experience. A protected natural park since 1995, the Vicentina Coast is veined with walking trails that lead ramblers through historic and epic terrain, a web that is collectively known as the Rota Vicentina.
The stand-out route is the 230km-long Historical Way, which follows in the footsteps of Catholic pilgrims who walked from the Cape of St Vincent in south-western Portugal – mainland Europe’s most western point – to Santiago
de Compostela in Spain, the purported burial site of apostle St James. The Algarve stretch of ‘The Way’ spans a 72km chunk, broken up into four sections that can each be tackled in a day. They all bring their own allure, with the northern tip beginning at the medieval Castle of Aljezur, before winding past lowlands and the Aljezur River, then slicing through valleys and down to the beaches of Amoreira.
Next, carve your way through eucalyptus forests to the blackened cliffs that frame the Bay of Arrifana. The ArrifanaCarrapateira section is a microcosm of the Vicentina Coast in many ways: crumbling cliffs overlook peaceful beaches, while the leaves of wild olive and oak trees flutter in the wind and rolling hills and meadows, which flower in the spring, buzz with a variety of insects. The terracotta-tiled buildings of the village of Bordeira are worth a closer look in particular.
The third section, stretching from Carrapateira to Vila do Bispo, coughs up more epic scenery, with gushing rivers hemmed in by deep valleys and vertiginous mountains that rise up right next to the beaches, with the villages of Vilarinha and Pedralva acting as charming pit stops. Meanwhile, the final segment, from Vila do Bispo to the Cape of St Vincent, is a birdwatcher’s paradise, with booted eagles, honey buzzards, red kites, kestrels and even golden eagles frequently spotted in the skies above. Vale Santo was once part of the pilgrimage route for devotees of Iberian deacon St Vincent, their trek culminating at the nearby monastery, where an imperious lighthouse now stands.
BLAZING A TRAIL
However, the Algarve is not just about the Historical Way; there are plenty of bitesize walks that web the region, and which are just as compelling. The south coast in particular is showcased on the Seven Hanging Valleys trail, which knits together many of the coast’s glittering beaches between Praia da Marinha and Praia de Vale Centeanes. The former is a sandy strip in its own right, its shore sprinkled with
gravity-defying sea stacks – think Europe’s answer to Australia’s Twelve Apostles. The rocky arches and grottoes here are geological wonders and worth the walk in themselves, their outcrops lined with seagulls and cormorants. One of the delights of the trail is the many skiffs that access the sinkholes and sea caves that honeycomb the cliffs – the grandly domed Benagil Cave is definitely a must-see.
More snackable strolls lie beyond, with the saltmarsh dunes of Culatra Island a quiet hop from the tourist hub of Faro. There, boardwalks forge access to the dunes as common redshanks, curlews, grey herons and cormorants flap around the inlet and mollusc shells pock the sand.
Further along, skirting the eastern side of the very tip of the Algarve, lies another trail that cuts through saltmarsh sands, at Praia do Barril. Here, wading birds like avocets, plovers and stonechats paddle the inlet, while fiddler crabs scuttle across the sands at low tide. The beach forms part of the much larger Tavira Island, once part of a major tunafishing industry. Men risked the unforgiving Atlantic waters to make the day’s catch, but once fish stocks were exhausted, the industry went with them. These days, only a memorial in their honour remains, with over 100 rusting anchors wedged in among the dunes, while the fishermen’s old houses have long since been repurposed as bustling cafés and beach huts.
FESTIVAL OF HIKING
If you need a little incentive to take to the trails, why not combine a visit with some local celebrations. There are a number of walking festivals taking off now, and they offer a fun way to get out on the trails while also taking in the sights.
The newest event to catch the eye is the Lagos Walking Festival, launching this year (1–4 November). During the festival, a number of guided walks will take ramblers around the picturesque port, each based around themes that honour the region’s heritage as well as its gastronomic and artisan scene. Throw in nature observations, archaeology tours and lots of workshops and conservation activities, and you have an event that offers a great way to combine the Algarve’s glorious landscape and culture.
Come April, the two towns of Alcoutim (6–8 April) and Ameixial (27–29 April) also hold similar festivals for spring strollers. But in truth, with its storied coastline, wild beaches, bird-rich dunes and valleys, you don’t need a reason to visit. Any time of year is trekking season here, and there are plenty of reasons to put your walking boots on. So, why not lace up and find out for yourself.