Wanderlust Travel Magazine (UK)
Footnotes
Baltic states: Latvia, Estonia & Lithuania
Vital statistics
Capitals: Tallinn (Estonia), Riga (Latvia), Vilnius (Lithuania) Population: 1.4 million (E), 2 million (La), 2.9 million (Li) Languages: Estonian, Latvian, Lithuanian; Russian-speaking minorities throughout the region Time: GMT+3 (GMT+2 Mar–oct) International dialling codes: +372 (E), +371 (La), +370 (Li) Visas: Not required by UK nationals. Money: Euro (€), currently around €1.13 to the UK£
When to go
June–august: This is the summer high season; long, warm days. October–april: Cools down rapidly as the seasons edge towards a dark, freezing midwinter. May–september: Shoulder season; mild and uncrowded.
Health & safety
There are few health concerns and low crime rate in the region. Take
insect repellent in summer.
The trip
The author travelled with Explore! (01252 883188, www.explore.co.uk), which offers seven-night Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania on Foot guided group departures between May and September 2019. Prices from £1,259, including flights from and to the UK, transfers, transport and B&B accommodation.
Getting there
Finnair (finnair.com) flies to the Baltic capitals from Heathrow via Helsinki from around £140 return; flight time is about 4.5 hours.
Wizz Air (wizzair.com) and easyjet (easyjet.com) fly to Vilnius (from Luton) and Tallinn (Gatwick) respectively; Ryanair (ryanair.com) flies to both from Stansted. Getting around For independent travellers, buses are by far the most convenient form of public transport. All three capitals are linked by direct services and there are various other crossborder routes. There is a more limited railway network within the countries. You can also travel by train between Tallinn and Riga.
Cost of travel
Hotels, restaurants and transport are considerably cheaper than in the UK, particularly outside the main cities; it is safe to budget for 25-to-30% less. Generally, the cost of living is highest in Estonia and lowest in Lithuania, while alcoholic drinks are cheapest in Latvia. Accommodation Go Hotel Shnelli (gohotels.ee) is a contemporary three-star affair near Tallinn’s main railway station. It is worth asking for one of the rooms with a view over the old town. Doubles from €39pn (£35). Outside the capital, Viinistu Art
Hotel (viinistu.ee) is a converted fish factory spectacularly set on the dramatic shores of the Gulf of Finland, at the edge of Estonia’s Lahemaa National Park. Doubles from €49pn (£43).
Over the border in Latvia, the grand old manor house of Hotel
Cesis (hotelcesis.com) is set in beautiful gardens not far from the centre of Cesis town, near
⊳ Gaujo National Park. Doubles from €44pn (£40).
In the Latvian capital, Riga’s Hanza Hotel (hansaworldwide. com) is a slightly quirky three-star with a buzzing beer cellar; it’s not far from ‘Stalin’s birthday cake’ and a few minutes’ walk from the old town. Doubles from €49pn (£44).
In Lithuania, Nida’s Jurate Hotel (hotel-jurate.lt) has been converted from a post office into a scenic stay on the lagoon side of the Curonian spit. Doubles from €69pn (£62).
And lastly, on the edge of Vilnius’ Old Town lies Panorama Hotel (panoramahotel.lt). This modern three-star hotel is a few minutes’ walk from the centre and has fine views from its upper-level windows. Doubles from €46pn (£41).
Food & drink
In general, standard restaurants throughout the Baltics offer filling and wholesome meals: meatballs, sausages or smoked fish served with potatoes and dumplings. More refined fare is easy to find in the main cities, but vegetarians and seekers of lighter meals may struggle in rural areas. Dark, heavy beers from local breweries are found throughout.
If you are in the region during summer, wild berries foraged from the forests and wetlands – bilberries, blueberries, crowberries – fill markets and menus. Likewise, wild mushrooms are plentiful in autumn.