First day’s tour
Begin with a stop at The Cube Park in hilly Morningside for city-scape views. The alternative on-high option is at Moses Mabhida Stadium – hop on the Skycar funicular, which tootles up to a viewing platform at the structure’s summit. Next, markets. Warwick Triangle, the city’s bustling transport and trading hub, is where to find nine of the best. Start at Victoria Street Market where a scrum of nearly 200 Zulu and Indian vendors trade jewellery, art and spices (‘KFC’ and ‘mother-inlaw exterminator’ are popular). The gastro curious should visit Bovine Head Market, where cows’ heads are slow-boiled and served as a traditional Zulu delicacy. While the eyes are ‘the best bits’, more squeamish eaters can opt for strips of soft and salty beef cheek, served with traditional ‘dumpling’ bread.
But save space for bunny chow, the city’s signature dish: a halved and hollowed white loaf filled with curry. The informal dining room at
Britannia Hotel is the best place to eat one – not least because of the exotic range of flavours.
A few minutes’ drive from the markets is Durban City Hall ( pictured), a neo-baroque pile fronted by a small park. Inside are the Natural Science Museum and
Durban Art Gallery, which offer free permanent exhibitions. The
Old Courthouse Museum is just behind, if Durban’s colonial history piques your interest.
For a polished dining experience, hop in an Uber to swanky
Umhlanga ‘village’, where The Chef’s Table serves up best-quality modern European food. For fun with your fare, try Florida Road in Morningside. Carnivores will love the Butcher Boys, where ‘wet-aged’ sirloins start at an outstanding R140 (£7.50). A host of lively bars await thirsty revellers from there.