First day’s tour

Wanderlust Travel Magazine (UK) - - Pocket Guide -

Be­gin with a stop at The Cube Park in hilly Morn­ing­side for city-scape views. The al­ter­na­tive on-high op­tion is at Moses Mab­hida Sta­dium – hop on the Sky­car fu­nic­u­lar, which too­tles up to a view­ing plat­form at the struc­ture’s sum­mit. Next, mar­kets. War­wick Tri­an­gle, the city’s bustling trans­port and trad­ing hub, is where to find nine of the best. Start at Vic­to­ria Street Mar­ket where a scrum of nearly 200 Zulu and In­dian ven­dors trade jew­ellery, art and spices (‘KFC’ and ‘mother-in­law ex­ter­mi­na­tor’ are pop­u­lar). The gas­tro cu­ri­ous should visit Bovine Head Mar­ket, where cows’ heads are slow-boiled and served as a tra­di­tional Zulu del­i­cacy. While the eyes are ‘the best bits’, more squea­mish eaters can opt for strips of soft and salty beef cheek, served with tra­di­tional ‘dumpling’ bread.

But save space for bunny chow, the city’s sig­na­ture dish: a halved and hol­lowed white loaf filled with curry. The in­for­mal din­ing room at

Bri­tan­nia Ho­tel is the best place to eat one – not least be­cause of the ex­otic range of flavours.

A few min­utes’ drive from the mar­kets is Dur­ban City Hall ( pic­tured), a neo-baroque pile fronted by a small park. In­side are the Nat­u­ral Sci­ence Mu­seum and

Dur­ban Art Gallery, which of­fer free per­ma­nent ex­hi­bi­tions. The

Old Court­house Mu­seum is just be­hind, if Dur­ban’s colo­nial his­tory piques your in­ter­est.

For a pol­ished din­ing ex­pe­ri­ence, hop in an Uber to swanky

Umh­langa ‘vil­lage’, where The Chef’s Ta­ble serves up best-qual­ity modern Eu­ro­pean food. For fun with your fare, try Florida Road in Morn­ing­side. Car­ni­vores will love the Butcher Boys, where ‘wet-aged’ sir­loins start at an out­stand­ing R140 (£7.50). A host of lively bars await thirsty rev­ellers from there.

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