Where to stay?
Top end: The city’s grande dame is the Oyster Box ( pictured; oysterboxhotel.com) in Umhlanga, where guests will find mid-century glamour, quirky Zulu artwork and superlative cuisine. All bedrooms face the sea, as does the stand-out Ocean Terrace. Doubles from R5,926 (£318) per night.
Mid-range: The high-rise Southern Sun Elangeni & Maharani (tsogosun.com/southern-sunelangeni-maharani) is front and centre on the Golden Mile, and its stylish, comfortable rooms deliver sweeping ocean views. Ask also about bike hire. Doubles from R1,900 (£100) per night.
Budget: There’s a pleasing mix of ages and nationalities at the harbourside Happy Hippo (happyhippodurban.co.za). Room options span six-bed dorms to en-suite doubles; the rooftop bar is also a great place to mingle. Doubles from R600 (£32) per night.