ASK THE EXPERTS

Wandering the great churches of Europe; exploring Panama beyond its canal; hanging out with sloths; and tracking down wolves in Transylvania – our experts put you in the know…

Q Spectacular churches always attract lots of visitors. What gems in Europe would you suggest visiting that are perhaps less well known?

Karen Field, via email

A In Rome, Italy, don’t miss the Basilica of San Clemente where you’ll walk down through layers of the city’s history. At street level it’s a 12th-century basilica with superb mosaics, but it also sits atop a 4th-century church that, in turn, stands over a pagan temple built above a Roman house with a secret Christian chapel.

Right behind Paris’ Panthéon, in the Latin Quarter of the French capital, lies the 15th-century Église Saint Étienne du Mont, a fine mix of late-gothic and Renaissance-era architecture. It has some stunning stained-glass windows but the highlight is its dramatic rood screen (the only one still remaining in Paris), together with spiralling staircases and exquisite carvings.

To the south, Burgundy’s hilltop Vézelay Abbey is a masterpiece of Romanesque architecture and sculpture, with spectacular stone carvings and take-your-breathaway vistas. And on the French coast, the Église St Catherine in Honfleur is likewise interesting. It was created in the shape of an upturned double hull by local boat builders in the 15th century and, together with its separate belltower, is built entirely of wood.

In Krakow, Poland, take a tram to the Nowa Huta district where volunteers built The Lord’s Ark by hand during the Communist era of the 1960s. They found 2 million stones for its construction and removed some 5,000 mines and shells from the site after an ammunition dump was discovered on the land. Consecrated in 1977 after a decade of dedicated hard labour, it makes an interesting foray into recent history.

Sue Dobson, author of Icon Books’ The 50 Greatest Churches And Cathedrals

Q I know about Panama’s capital and its famous canal, but where else in the country should I visit?

Janet Rogers, via email

A Despite its relatively small size, Panama has a lot going for it besides the canal and its frenetic capital, including a number of excellent national parks. In the west, the rural province of Chiriquí is a prime spot for hiking, birdwatching and other outdoor adventures, with the most amenities found in the mountain town of Boquete. This area is much cooler than Panama City, and the surrounding highlands are punctuated with fragrant citrus and coffee groves, as well as immense waterfalls, whitewater rapids, hot springs and primeval cloud forests. Its Sendero Los Quetzales trail in Volcán Barú NP is also considered one of the best hikes in Central America.

On the Caribbean side of Panama, the province of Bocas del Toro is home to a dazzling archipelago of paradise islands that are well worth a visit. Beaches, rainforests, coral reefs and an intriguing mix of indigenous and Afro-caribbean cultures are the prime attractions.

Elsewhere, the so-called Central Provinces (including the Azuero Peninsula) are also considered Panama’s cradle of folklore, famed for their festivals and artisan workshops. And finally, there are Panama’s indigenous territories. These include the stunning Guna Yala archipelago, the rainforest communities of the Emberá and Wounaan peoples, and the highland villages of the Ngäbes (Soloy is my favourite). Travel in these regions can be transformative, but it’s best to arrange your visit in advance.

Richard Arghiris, author of Footprint’s Costa Rica, Nicaragua & Panama handbook

Q I really want to go out and see sloths in the wild. Where is the best place to do this, and what are my chances of seeing them awake and ‘in action’?

James Miles, via email

A Sloths hang out in the jungles of Central and South America. They are pretty common but seeing one in the wild is hard as they are cryptic creatures whose survival strategy is stealth. Their fur is coated in algae, so they blend in, and their movements are silent and slow, making them hard to spot without the help of a professional guide.

I’ve had a lot of luck spotting wild sloths in Costa Rica, especially in and around Manuel Antonio National Park on the Pacific coast. The good thing about sloths is that, unlike monkeys, they don’t run away, so you can stand and watch them for hours if you like. This means they often draw a crowd, so another good way to find a sloth is to look for a group of people staring up at a tree and waving cameras.

However, your best chance of seeing a sloth is to visit a dedicated rescue centre. I would recommend the Toucan Rescue Ranch in Costa Rica (not far from San José) and the Gamboa Wildlife Centre in Panama (run by the APPC), near Gamboa Rainforest. Both these sanctuaries offer the opportunity to stay on site and get a close look at the orphaned baby sloths they have rescued, which are all part of rehabilitation programs to release them back into the wild as adults.

Be wary of unscrupulous sanctuaries that never release their sloths; or worse still, ones that offer the opportunity to hold or touch them for photos. These are very delicate animals that do not like human contact and die easily from stress. Sloths are mesmerising to watch; enjoy them from a distance and never interfere with them, whether captive or wild.

Lucy Cooke, author of Doubleday’s The Unexpected Truth About Animals

Q I really want to see a wolf in the wild, and I hear Transylvania is a good place to start. But where is the best spot to see one?

Martin Wood, via email

A In Transylvania, the best place to see wolves in the wild is the Piatra Craiului NP, near the town of Zarnesti. Local guide Danut Marin leads wolf-watching tours in the park (http://transylvanianwolf.ro/wp/).

Another place to consider is the village of Miclosoara in Covasna county. Here, you can stay in houses run by a real Transylvanian count, Tibor Kalnoky, who also leads wildlife-watching walks in the surrounding villages, where you can not only look for wolves but go birdspotting, too.

‘Be wary of unscrupulous sanctuaries that never release their sloths; or worse still, ones that let you to hold or touch them for photos’

Lucy Mallows, author of Bradt’s Romania: Transylvania guide