HERE’S THE PLAN...

top tip

You’ll see many people drinking mate (ma-tay), a hot drink made from yerba mate, a species of plant that is related to holly. A gourd is half filled with the tea; hot water is then poured in and drunk through a straw called a bombilla. It is usually shared with friends, so give it a try.

■ Essential Info

Population: 619,000 Language: Spanish, Quechua Timezone: GMT-3 International dialling code: +54 Visas: Not required by UK nationals for stays of up to 90 days. Currency: Argentine Pesos (ARS), currently ARS23 to the UK£. Highest viewpoint: For panoramic views out over the city, be sure to make the trek up Cerro San Bernardo – though it’s best to start early, to avoid the heat. The path starts at Monumento a Güemes and takes around 30 minutes to reach the top, or you can take the quick route instead, hitching a ride on the teleférico (cable car) that begins at Parque San Martín. Once at the summit, treat yourself to a coffee on the terrace of the café, which rewards with some commanding views out over the city and beyond to the mountains. Health issues: Salta is a modern city, but general advice for South America prevails, so drink bottled water and watch for signs of altitude sickness if travelling high into the Andes. Argentina has been categorised as having a moderate risk of Zika virus transmission. Take precautions to avoid mosquito bites that carry dengue fever. There is a low risk of malaria.

Recommended guidebooks:

The Rough Guide to Argentina (2016) Web resources: The official guide to the area is www.turismosalta.gov.ar. Climate: Salta’s summers are warm (26–28ºc) with cooler evenings. In winter, nighttime temps can be as cool as 3ºc, but between December and March are almost daily thunderstorms.

■ First Day’s Tour

Having made your morning trek up Cerro San Bernardo (see ‘Essential info’), breakfast at the top then stroll down to the central 9 de Julio Plaza, passing Iglesia San Francisco church on the corner of Córdoba and Caseros. Completed in 1872, its red, gold and white façade makes for one of the city’s most photogenic sights. From here, walk the final block to the large, leafy Plaza 9 de Julio, where you can grab a few empanadas and spy the city’s colonial legacy. On one side, the neoclassical Cathedral of Salta, completed in 1882, is the city’s grandest building. Across from it lies the cabildo (town hall; pictured); this is home to Histórico Del Norte Museum, which gives a good overview of the history of the Argentinian north.

Lastly, the plaza’s Arqueología de Alta Montaña Museum is unmissable and has exhibits on high-mountain archeology. Inside is one of the region’s most curious finds: the preserved bodies of three child sacrifices from the Inca era. Only one is on display at a time and it is a powerful sight.

If that hasn’t put you off dinner, don’t miss Doña Salta (Córdoba 46) for authentic Andean food – the locro (Andean stew) is amazing. Finally, finish the night listening to some of the best folk music in Salta at La Casona del Molino (Luis Burela 1).

■ Where to Stay

Top end: As with a lot of Argentina, it’s the boutique hotels that offer the best experience. An excellent choice is Legado Mítico Salta (legadomitico.com) on Bartolomé Mitre 647. This 11-room boutique hotel is in a converted townhouse and is only a block away from the central plaza ( pictured); from ARS2,500 (£110) for a twin room. Mid-range: If you want something reasonably swanky and downtown, Design Suites Salta (designsuites.com) on Avenue Belgrano 770 is a good option, with some bargains to be had. The view from the rooftop pool over the city and mountains is worth it alone; doubles from ARS2,200 (£96). Budget: There are plenty of budget hostels in Salta, too, and most are very good. Hostel All Norte (387 471 2960) on Balcarce 1353 is located north of the centre and has a rustic charm and a reputation for being a friendly escape; from ARS625 (£27) for a twin room.

■ Stay or Go?

A couple of days in Salta is enough, and you don’t want to miss the otherworldly landscapes around the province.

Cafayate is a three-hour drive from Salta and is one of the picks of northern Argentina. The journey threads the Quebrada de Cafayate ( pictured), home to some natural wonders. Another reason to visit is its wineries; some of the best Argentinian wines, including the white torrontés, are made from the high-altitude grapes of the Valles Calchaquíes.

The famous Tren de las Nubes (Train of the Clouds; trenalasnubes.com.ar) is a tourist train that runs up to 4,200m above sea level to the Polvorilla viaduct. It leaves a couple of times a week, and as well as being a true feat of engineering, the train provides a condor’s-eye view of the vast Puna – the high Andean plateau. Much of the route from Salta is now on a bus, with only the final section (from San Antonio de los Cobres) to the viaduct on the train.