Wanderlust Travel Magazine (UK)

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Travel Tips | Gear | Health | Books | Advice Solving all your travel needs and dilemmas CUT OUT AND KEEP POCKET GUIDES P157

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The Inside Passage ferry trip from Port Hardy to Prince Rupert was incredible, with not only fantastic scenery but great wildlife. We saw humpbacks, porpoises and eagles. Must see: The Icefields Parkway from Jasper to Banff was a highlight, and you can easily escape the hordes by visiting the less well-known trails along the way. Peyto Lake takes your breath away when you first see it, as does Moraine Lake, which has a wonderful hike up to Larch Valley. Top tip: The public transport in Vancouver is excellent and cheap, and there is no need for expensive sightseein­g buses – the local bus routes cover all needs for a fraction of the price. Cautionary tale: Plan in a few days’ rest along the way if possible. We were non-stop for three weeks, and now need another break!

Just how much Banff had changed since we last visited 20 years ago. It’s now bursting at the seams with people and tour groups. We much preferred Jasper, which was quieter and had a more remote feel to it. Also, if our budget had stretched, we would have loved to have spent another night at the Moraine Lake Lodge. Anything else? Pack lots of layers if you visit in September – we experience­d temperatur­es from -6ºc to +22ºc as well as rain, snow and sun.

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