ANGKOR, CAMBODIA THE USUAL: THE ALTERNATIVES: ALSO TRY:

Much has been written about the ancient Khmer temple complex – much of it on how best to dodge the crowds. As a rule of thumb, the peak summer rains (Jun–aug) rarely strike before noon; if you arrive early in this season (Angkor Wat and the major temples open at 5am), you’ll find the key sites less crowded, especially if you cycle to the more remote temples while the tour groups break for breakfast. But don’t limit yourself to Angkor: the Khmer were avid builders, and it’s well worth visiting their other monuments elsewhere.

Banteay Chhmar, built in the 12th century by Jayavarman VII, is adorned with gorgeous bas-relief carvings and huge Boddhisatva faces – a little like the Bayon at Angkor, but with a fraction of the crowds. Take the three-hour journey north-west from Siem Reap for a glimpse of what a visit to Angkor was like before it was thronged with 2.5 million visitors a year.

Another, more remote temple to tempt is Preah Vihear, high in the Dangrek Mountains on the border with Thailand. Long off-limits due to Khmer Rouge activity and border disputes, it’s once more safe to visit. Built from the ninth century, this sandstone complex is older than Angkor Wat and, like that monument, was originally a Hindu temple before becoming a Buddhist shrine; developed over three centuries by successive kings, it combines a fascinating mix of styles.

If money is no object, take a helicopter trip combining Angkor, Banteay Chhmar and Preah Vihear for unmatched views and easy access to the key sites.

( Head to Angkor Wat at breakfast time to dodge tour groups; ( make for the Thai border to admire the beautiful sandstone complex at Preah Vihear wanderlust.co.uk March 2019