Capital: Population: Language(s): Time: International dialling code: Visas: Money: May–october: November–april:

Moroni 821,000 (Mayotte: 260,000) Shikomoro (a blend of Swahili and Arabic), French, Arabic; little English spoken GMT+3

+269 Required by UK nationals. They can be obtained on arrival for €30 (£27) cash. UK nationals do not currently require a visa for Mayotte.

Comorian Franc (KMF), currently around KMF550 to the UK£. There are ATMS but few places accept credit cards.

When to go

Peak season, with dry, sunny days in the high 20°Cs. Hot and humid; temperatures are often 30°C-plus.

Health & safety

Health facilities are poor. Visit your GP before travel to discuss vaccinations; malaria prophylaxis is essential. There has been unrest over past decades; steer clear of demonstrations. Avoid the small inter-island boats, which have a history of sinking in poor weather. Be aware that Mount Karthala is an active volcano.

The trip

The author travelled independently but sought logistical help from Native Eye (nativeeyetravel.com; 01473 328546), which offers a nineday small-group trip that features all three Comoros islands from £1,399 excluding international flights. For an extra £575, it can add on a threeday extension to Mayotte. 140 wanderlust.co.uk March 2019

WHAT TO PACK

Take a headtorch as street lighting is poor; dress conservatively on Anjouan and Grande Comore; carry a small note supply of euros and a French phrasebook as little English is spoken.

Getting there

Return flights to Moroni via Addis Ababa with Ethiopian Airlines (ethiopianairlines.com; 0208 987 7000) cost £1,070. Flight time is from around 14 hours plus stopover. Other options include Air France (airfrance.com), which flies to both Moroni and Mayotte, and Kenya Airways (kenya-airways.com).

Getting around In both Comoros and Mayotte there is no public transport. Internal journeys are by taxi-brousse (shared taxis) – just flag one down and squeeze in. Fares are very cheap. Island hopping is possible in small

boats; fares between Grande Comore, Mohéli and Anjouan are £20. A safer alternative is to use scheduled ferries (sgtm.com). A twice-weekly departure connects Moroni and Anjouan; one-way fares cost from 15,000KMF (£27).

Three airlines link the Comoros islands and Mayotte: AB Aviation (abaviation.aerocrs.net), Int’air Îles and EWA Air (ewa-air.com). A twiceweekly departure connects Moroni and Anjouan; one-way fares cost from 15,000KMF (£27). An AnjouanMayotte flight costs €179 (£158).

Cost of travel

Overall, the islands are expensive for travellers. A decent hotel costs £45 to £90 per night. Getting around independently is cheap but tricky. Consider a private tour and expect to pay from £45pp. In Mayotte, dining out costs European prices, with mains about £12-20. Food and drink is slightly cheaper in Comoros; a beer costs around £2.

Accommodation

Retaj International (Moroni; retaj-hotels.com) is a good option on the coast. It has no beach but rooms are clean and spacious. Doubles from £71 room only.

Golden Tulip (Moroni; grandecomore-moroni.goldentulip.com) has pleasant ocean-facing rooms with a great bar and a nice sandy beach. B&B doubles from £62.

Hotel Al-amal (Mutsamudu; +269 771 1010) is the best option in town with clean sea-facing rooms – although dining over the road at Pension Papillon is recommended. B&B doubles from £44.

Maison AZ&MA (Mamoudzou; facebook.com/maisonazma; +269 616268) is located in the ’burbs in a family home. B&B doubles from £40; the larger chambre confort plus rooms (£58) are recommended.

Le Relais Forestier (Mont Combani; giteamayotte.com) comprises hillside bungalows within lemur-rich forest; there’s a Zen feel on account of the on-site yoga classes. Bungalows from £58.

Les Baobabs (Bandrele; lesbaobabs.cleasite.fr) is

a residential house with lovely rooms furnished with a seaside flavour and great views from the breakfast terrace. B&B doubles from £94.

Les Couleurs (Petit-terre; mayotte-les-couleurs.com) is a friendly little B&B located close to Lake Dziani. B&B doubles from £40.

Food & drink

Rice is the staple of every meal. Chicken, fish and goat are common and brochettes (skewers) of fish are delicious. Vanilla and coconut are popular in sauces, with one of the more extraordinary combinations being lobster with vanilla sauce. There is a French influence in the more expensive restaurants. Beer and wine is also available but not in the more strictly Islamic eateries.

Further reading & information

comorosdiscover.com – official site for Comoros Tourism Board mayotte-tourisme.com – official site for Mayotte Tourism Board