Ablgufufepr’s u grunidiemto. a..

What is Fagu Purnima? This is Holi – the shirt-splattering Hindu festival of colours – but as celebrated in Nepal, rather than the standard destination of India. It takes place on the full moon in the month of Falgun (late Feb–late March) and marks the arrival of spring.

Do I still get to hurl powder? Yes. Lots of it. But while a multicoloured abeer (powder) shower is still key, there are variations to, say, India. ‘Playing’ Holi in Kathmandu hots up at midday, as people head onto the streets to flirt with, tease and chase each other with powders while others hurl water balloons from the safety of their flats.

So, is everyone fair game? Nepalis are generally very respectful. Un-powdered foreigners will often be asked before being ‘anointed’ for the first time – but after that first hit, you are anyone’s! Be ready for selfie requests and embraces from locals in what is a good-humoured festival.

How does it differ to India? Nepal is gloriously ecumenical, and Buddhists and Muslims all join in to play Holi. Bonfires ( see right) feature less here, and the Nepali Holi stories are also a bit different. For example, Nepali Holi starts with the raising of the Chir pole in Kathmandu’s Durbar Square. The pole is draped in pataka (strips of cloth) to mark the day that Lord Krishna tricked some skinny-dipping maidens by hiding their clothes up a tree. At Fagu’s end, on the eighth day, the pole is burnt and its ashes and cloths fought over as they are thought to ward off evil.

dhwojaWhen can I experience it? The moon determines the date of the festival each year, but the main date also varies according to whether you are in the Kathmandu Valley (20 Mar 2019) or the Nepali lowlands (21 Mar).

NEED TO KNOW

sadhusAn even bigger party than Fagu in Nepal is Shiva Ratri (4 Mar 2019), a Hindu festival marked by the arrival of pilgrim and music, prayers and dancing throughout the night. It’s also the one day that it’s legal to smoke marijuana in Nepal!