THE NORTHERN CIRCUIT

Best for: archaeology, waterfalls, birdwatching & nature

DURATION: 10 days (plus 4–5 days for an Amazon extension) ROUTE: Lima • Chiclayo • Chachapoyas • Celendín • Cajamarca • Chachapoyas • Tarapoto • Iquitos • Lima WHY GO? There is a wealth of pre-Inca sites in the coastal desert and the Chachapoyas area of the Andes, plus forests, waterfalls, birdwatching, horse riding and trips on the Amazon. WHEN TO GO? All year on the coast. Chachapoyas’ dry season is May to September (roads may be difficult in rainy season). The Amazon is typically drier from April to October.

The huge adobe pyramids around Ciclayo (in the Lambayeque department, 260km north of Trujillo) contain noble tombs, such as Sipán, the artefacts from which are now mostly displayed in fine modern museums. A highlight, though, are the Sicán ruins in Pómac forest where you can horse ride and enjoy its birdlife.

Travel a day inland to the domain of the ‘Cloud People’ (aka the Chachapoya), where stone fortresses like Kuélap straddle mountaintops and mysterious sarcophagi cling to inaccessible ledges. An exciting route south from Chachapoyas passes more archaeological ruins and traverses deep gorges to the colonial city of Cajamarca, from where flights go to Lima and buses to Trujillo.

A beautiful road crosses the Andes, descending the Abra Patricia conservation area to the Amazon lowlands, through the orchid city of Moyobamba and on to Tarapoto. Birdwatching opportunities are rife here.

Next, fly from Tarapoto to Iquitos for an Amazonian adventure on the mighty river itself, or into the waterways of Pacaya Samiria National Reserve. If you prefer to stick to the coast, go from Chiclayo to Piura (reached from Lima by plane) and on to Máncora, one of Peru’s premier beach resorts. You can then carry on north to Ecuador.

A big splash (top) Yumbilla Falls is the fifthtallest drop on Earth, and a fine hike through cloud forest; (bottom) the adobe pyramids of Lambayeque