Wanderlust Travel Magazine (UK)
THE LURES OF LUCERNE
Vibrant Lucerne is a place of art and culture – but step away from the city and you’ll find the countryside brimming with adventure
Lucerne is the sort of city to make others weep. With a handsome medieval heart and an enchanting lake, set within a hug of mighty mountains, it seems to have all the luck. It also has a modern and artistic edge – as evidenced by its avant-garde Culture and Convention Centre and hip Bruch neighbourhood. Lucerne is a place in which to wander at leisure, browsing the markets, museums, boutiques and bridges, before making a break for the spiky peaks and hiking trails, valley-tucked villages, historic railways, lakeside lidos and cosy inns that lie within easy reach.
STROLL THE CITY
The city of Lucerne is (quite literally) pretty as a picture. Joseph Mallord William Turner, the great English Romantic painter, was bewitched by Switzerland, and visited the country – and Lucerne specifically – many times, immortalising its unique light and drama on canvas. In summer 2019, to mark the 200th anniversary of the Lucerne Art Society, a special exhibition of some of his Swiss works is being held at the Kunstmuseum Luzern, the impressive art museum on the top floor of the Culture and Convention Centre.
Viewing the exhibition is a must, but so too is stepping out of the gallery and into the real thing, taking in the sights that moved Turner to get out his brushes. A city walking tour is a good way to start. Join a local expert for a stroll through the historic Old City, over the centuries-old Kapellbrücke (Chapel Bridge). Don’t miss the Hirschmatt-Neustadt quarter, an area full of pavement cafés, little shops, mouthwatering chocolatiers and buzzing bars. Further off the beaten track is Bruch, once the city’s cattle market and now Lucerne’s liveliest residential quarter, where you’ll find fringe theatres and quirky craft stores.
For a different view, hike up into Gütsch Wood. Follow the paths through the beech trees
‘The Four Lakes Walk puts you right in a Turner painting – a landscape of imposing mountains surrounded by lakes, each with their own vibrant hue’
and alongside the stream, stop for a picnic or finish at the 19thcentury Château Gütsch – now a restaurant and hotel – for a drink on the terrace looking over the city and the hills.
TAKE TO THE LAKE
Lake Lucerne is Switzerland’s fourth-largest lake but arguably its most intricate. It nips and tucks, splurges and contracts, splays into arms and turns unexpected corners. The result is that there always seems to be a new nook to explore.
Fortunately, that’s easily done. Vintage paddle steamers, modern motor vessels, elegant yachts and speedy shuttles are available – all year, in all weathers – to whizz you to various docks around the lakeshore; at many, you can disembark directly onto a mountain railway or cloudbusting cablecar, with seamless efficiency. There are also lazy cruises that come with interesting commentary and, in some cases, unlimited fondue.
If you want to cool off, head to the Strandbad Lido for a swim, take a dip off the golden sands of Ufschötti Park or leap into lesser-visited Rotsee Badi – a good place to escape the crowds. If you fancy hitting the water under your own steam, try kayaking or canoeing around the shores of Lake Lucerne – you can go solo or set out with a guide on a full-day tour.
Alternatively, head further afield – by train to the village of Engelberg – for a different water wonder. Here, the Four Lakes Walk puts you right in a Turner painting – a landscape of imposing mountains, dominated by Mount Titlis and surrounded by lakes Trüb, Engstlen, Tannen and Melch, each of which has its own charm and vibrant hue.
MAKE FOR THE MOUNTAINS
Having navigated around the lake, you’ll want to break into the mountains that surround it. Start with Mount Rigi. This iconic 1,797m peak is known as the Queen of the Mountains. Home to a holy spring, a pilgrimage trail, Europe’s first mountain railway and Switzerland’s first mountain inn, it’s been scaled by everyone from Mark Twain to Queen Victoria, holding a special place in the Swiss psyche. Ride up on the historic Rigi cogwheel railway and follow one of the trails around the summit.
Mighty Mount Pilatus rears even higher. It’s conquered by the world’s steepest cogwheel railway, which grinds up the 2,132m peak via constantly changing landscapes: from the lush lakeside to verdant pastures, into thick forest then out into stark high-alpine terrain. The view from the top is almost always a breath-stealer: you might look down on scattered summits breaking through a blanket of cloud or, if it’s crystal clear, see all the way to the Jungfrau.
You could also ascend Mount Stanserhorn, perhaps via the world’s first double-decker opentop cableway. Gliding above the lake and meadows, wind in your hair, you’ll feel like you’re flying (look out for the eagles that really are). Once at the top, follow a trail back down or join the birds again, strapping in for a tandem paraglide.