Trekking tips

What are Nepal’s teahouses actually like?

Nepal’s main trekking areas are lined with lodges, or ‘teahouses’, but these vary greatly in quality. On remote trails, rooms are simple plywood boxes and food is limited to dal bhat (rice, vegetables and lentil soup), but in the Annapurna and Everest regions you can expect en-suite rooms, hot showers, WiFi and dining rooms serving up espresso coffee and cold beer. This is trekking in style.

Everest or Annapurna?

How to choose between Nepal’s two most popular teahouse trekking destinations? Well, Everest normally requires a domestic flight to Lukla airport, which adds some cost and might deter nervous fliers. By contrast, you can set foot on Annapurna’s main trails just an hour or two after finishing breakfast in Nepal’s second city, Pokhara.

In general, Everest has the more impressive close-up mountain views (although the Annapurna Sanctuary is a close second) and it has interesting Sherpa culture and expedition history, with the almost irresistible lure of seeing the world’s tallest mountain. The Annapurna foothills offer lower elevations but also more flexibility if you are looking for a shorter trek.

How much time do I need?

Whether you have a week or a month to play with, budget time to travel to your trailhead as well as a buffer day or two in case of delay, especially if using domestic flights. Be aware also that some arresting points in the Everest and Annapurna regions lie off the main routes, and adding just two or three extra days to make side trips or to enjoy an afternoon off can make a huge difference to your enjoyment. A slower pace also helps to prevent altitude sickness.

What’s the best time to trek?

The most popular months for treks in Nepal are October and

November, followed by April and May. The former generally bring the clearest views, but

April and May see the spring rhododendron bloom. Only a few treks are recommended during the monsoon months of June, July, August and September (see p75). Winter treks are possible with the right cold-weather gear, but some teahouses and high passes close between December and February.