Wanderlust Travel Magazine (UK)
Footnotes
Southern Patagonia, Argentina
Take a macro lens and magnifying glass – Patagonia is as amazing for its tiny natural wonders as it is for its mega landscapes.
Andes. It can be windy but rain showers are usually short-lived. The warmest time of year is generally late January when highs are regularly around 18°C and night temperatures rarely drop below 8°C. By April, frost is possible. Some hotels and rural estancias only open during the fairer months. January and February is the peak holiday season for Argentines.
Health & safety
Make sure jabs are up to date. There are no special risks in this temperate region, but watch out for ticks. Pack a high-factor sunscreen as the ozone layer is depleted here so the southern sun is surprisingly strong.
Getting there
British Airways (0844 493 0787; britishairways.com) operates daily non-stop flights from London Heathrow to Buenos Aires Ezeiza from around £387 return; flight time is from 14 hours. Flights from Buenos Aires (Jorge Newbery domestic airport) to El Calafate are with Aerolineas Argentinas (0871 644 4453; aerolineas.com), from around £138 return.
Getting around
Taxis and minibuses are the easiest way to travel around this vast region. Estancia Helsingfors arranges a free scheduled transfer with your booking from El Calafate. Buses travelling between El Calafate and El Chaltén pass the entrance to Helsingfors on the main road (Ruta 40). From there you can hitch – if you’re lucky – or else hike the 70km to the estancia.
Car hire is not a practical option as you’d have to go back to the start to return the vehicle. From Cristina, the boat is the only way back; contact the estancia for rates as most people visit on day trips.
Cost of travel
Argentine Patagonia is not cheap. Although the peso has been repeatedly devalued since 2001, hotel rates are in US dollars and almost all food, drink and other items have to be imported into the southern provinces. Bank on paying between £30 and £50 for a basic hotel; £70 to £160 for a mid-range option; and as much as £700 per day for some of the top-end estancias.