10 Patagonia highlights

1

Estancia Helsingfors

While Helsingfors leaves the real sheep herding to its neighbour Los Hermanos, it has retained its farmhouse feel. Corrugated metal roofs and open fires gives the place an authentic feel.

2

Lago Viedma

Everybody goes to Lago Argentino but those in the know also visit Viedma – even if you don’t take on the Way of the Condor trail, you can explore the lakeside and surrounding passes on day hikes.

3

Upsala Glacier

Shrinking fast, Upsala is being closely studied by climatologists and glaciologists. From the viewpoints above, this great tongue of ice is still impressive. It’s possible to head out on multi-day hikes if you fancy the challenge.

4

Fossil Canyon

Looking out for ammonites is only part of the fun while exploring the Cañadón de los Fósiles – available as a day trip from Estancia Cristina. The formations, boulders, colours and overall setting are magnificent.

5 Estancia Cristina

Run by an English family in the early 20th century, Cristina helped Patagonia become the world’s second-largest wool producer in the 1930s. There’s an on-site museum, and it’s a rather luxurious base for hikes, horseriding and fishing trips.

6

Perito Moreno Glacier

The magnet of Argentine Patagonia, this famous ice wall is the one that grows and grows until it blocks a channel, is undermined and… collapses, dramatically, sending up mini tsunamis. Boats go along it, hiking groups put on crampons to get inside it and tipplers cut off ice for their whisky. Busy, but worth half a day, for sure.

7

Estancia La Anita

The estancia is closed to the public, but the roadside monument is a powerful reminder of the slaughter in 1921, of as many as 1,500 gauchos who were involved in a rural workers’ uprising.

8

El Chaltén

The town is a bit of a backpacker den, with hostels, craft ale bars, pizzerias and millennials on Wi-fi. But the surrounding peaks – including Mount Fitz Roy – are some of the most photogenic in the region. A network of trails lends itself to day hikes.

9

Estancia Nibepo Aike

This cosy estancia on Lago Roca is great for horseriding, with easy hikes to the surrounding foothills. Nearby are cave paintings by Tehuelches.

10 Chile

Just four or five hours away by road, you can easily combine the featured walk with a few days in Chile’s Torres del Paine, or cultural fixes in either Punta Arenas or Puerto Natales.