Wanderlust Travel Magazine (UK)
Footnotes
Southern Gulf Islands, Canada
Vital statistics
Population: Depending on the island, between 300 and 10,500
Language: English
Time: GMT-7
International dialling code: +1
Visas: Not required by UK nationals for short stays. However, visitors travelling to Canada by air require an electronic travel authorisation (ETA).
Money: The Canadian dollar (C$) is currently around C$1.69 to the UK£.
When to go
April to September: The Gulf Islands receive far less rain than Vancouver, with Pender, Saturna and Salt Spring islands having a Mediterranean climate that allows olive production. The average summer temperature does not usually exceed 23°C. October to March: The wettest months are from November through to February, when many hotels and restaurants close.
Getting there
Air Canada (aircanada.co.uk, 00 800 669 92222) fly from London Heathrow to Nanaimo Airport, via Vancouver (from £572 return). The shortest journey time is from around 12 hours. Ferries to the Gulf Islands from Tsawwassen are operated by BC Ferries (bcferries.com, +250 386 3431)
Getting around
Bikes are a popular way to explore the islands, though electric assistance is welcome on some of the hillier islands. Salt Spring has the highest density of electric cars per head of population in Canada, with a growing number of charging points.
Only Salt Spring is large enough to have seasonal scheduled buses, on six routes. Mayne and Pender have community buses, and Mayne, Pender and Salt Spring have a ‘Car Stop’ scheme – stand by the sign and the next car will hopefully ask where you want to go. There are few roads so it works well and is a great way to meet the locals.
Accommodation
You can find accommodation as cheaply as £50pn, but it could also cost almost £240.
Hastings House Country House Hotel (hastingshouse.com) is Salt Spring Island’s finest hotel, overlooking Ganges Harbour and built in the style of a Sussex manor house by a descendant of Warren Hastings. Rooms from C$405 [£230].
Poets Cove Resort & Spa
(poetscove.com) on South Pender Island offers Lodge, Villa or Cottage rooms, all overlooking the sea. You can also rent paddleboards and kayaks. Rooms from C$195 [£112].
Mayne Island Resort
(mayneislandresort.com) lies on Bennett Bay at the eastern end of the island, with rooms in the inn and in nearby self-catering villas. Kayak rental is available. Rooms from C$159 [£92].
Galiano Oceanfront Inn & Spa
(galianoinn.com) is close to the ferry terminal and has a fabulous waterfront position on Sturdies Bay. A fine restaurant is flanked by 20 suites and well-equipped selfcatering villas. There are also smart cars for hire. Rooms from C$169 [£97].
The new Woodstone Manor
(woodstonegaliano.com) on Galiano has 12 luxurious bedrooms, most overlooking a rare open valley, and the only large area of farmland. The restaurant boasts a Michelin-starred chef. Rooms from C$225 [£130].
Four Winds B&B
(fourwindsb-b.com) has views from its shoreline location on the north coast of Saturna Island. Rooms from C$150 [£87].
Food & drink
There is a wide variety of places to east, from food trucks to fine dining. Fabulous fresh fish and shellfish are on every menu.
On Salt Spring, try The Food Garden for an eclectic collection of food carts with the emphasis on local organic ingredients. For a treat, head to Hastings House Hotel. On Pender, Jo’s Place offers all-day food with evening dishes such as jambalaya skillet and imaginative salads.
Jazz, recorded or live, may be playing at Mayne’s Groove Kitchen, with lots of creative flavour combinations on the menu. The Crane and Robin on Galiano serves a great chowder and salmon tacos with a view to die for. So does the Lighthouse Pub right on the water at Saturna’s dock, appropriately big on the fruits of the sea.
Further reading
Hiking the Gulf Islands: An Outdoor Guide to BC’S Enchanted Isles by Charles Kahn (Harbour Publishing, 2004).
gulfislandstourism.com – the official tourism site