FIRST 24 HOURS IN... SAMARKAND, UZBEKISTAN

Step back in time as you discover this bejewelled city’s medieval architecture and 2,750-year history, says Sophie Ibbotson

Before you arrive

Samarkand is the very heart of the Silk Road, a glittering spectacle of tiled mosques, madrassas and mausoleums. It’s easily Uzbekistan’s most recognisable cultural destination, and its bejewelled Timurid-era monuments are a UNESCO World Heritage site. Standing in front of the Registan or walking through the Shah-i Zinda, you’ll be transported back in time to a period when Samarkand was the capital of an empire stretching from Turkey to India.

While the medieval architecture of Samarkand is its biggest draw, the city in fact has more than 2,750 years of history to explore. Alexander the Great came here, and so did Genghis Khan. Both of these warrior kings shaped the city, although it was Amir Timur who’d have the greatest impact. He was a patron of architecture and the arts as much as he was a fearsome warrior.

Contemporary life in Samarkand is equally vibrant, especially if you come during the Nowruz (Persian New Year) celebrations in late March. Not only will there be dancing in the streets and feasting, but also traditional kurash wrestling and kupkari matches – Uzbekistan’s answer to polo. The people of Samarkand are also incredibly welcoming and may well invite you into their homes for tea and freshly baked bread.

Getting to the city

Although you can fly into Samarkand Airport, the best way to reach the city is by taking the superb high-speed Afrosiyob train from Tashkent. Uzbekistan Airways flies twice weekly from London Heathrow (Tuesday and Friday), and if you pair a flight with the Afrosiyob train, it’s possible to visit Samarkand for a long weekend, especially now that UK passport citizens can stay for 30 days without a visa.

Built by the Spanish company Talgo, the trains are immaculately clean, affordable and run to time. Arriving at the station, taxis wait by the exit to transport you into the centre of town for around US$5 (£3.81). Agree the price before you get in, or ask your hotel to send a car. The drive should take 15-20 minutes depending on the time of day.

ASK A LOCAL

“The most authentic place to try plov (Uzbekistan’s national dish) is at the plov centre near the Ulugh Beg Observatory. It’s a little out of the way, but this is where local people go. Plov is made with hard-boiled quail eggs, chickpeas and chillies.” Victoria Yalanskaya, Guide at Veres Vert

Beating city Registan square was once the heart of the ancient city of Samarkand