First day’s tour

Rise early to see the Shah-i Zinda in the morning light before the tour groups arrive. This was the royal necropolis of the Timurid dynasty (minus Timur himself), and is also thought to be the burial place of Kusam ibn Abbas, a cousin of the prophet Muhammad. The majolica tilework on the tombs is among the finest in Uzbekistan.

Cross the road to the Bibikhanym Mosque with its giant portal and turquoise dome. The mosque was built by Amir Timur and is named in honour of his wife. Locals believe that if a woman crawls beneath the marble Quran stand in the central courtyard she will soon conceive a child.

Haggle for dried fruits and nuts in Samarkand Bazaar, then wander along Tashkent Street, which is lined with handicraft shops and designer boutiques. Samarkand is famed for its painted ceramics and embroidered textiles, so it’s the perfect place to pick up souvenirs.

At the end of Tashkent Street is the Registan, the most impressive site on the entire Silk Road. Three jewel-like madrassas (universities) flank the square. Be sure to go inside the Tilla-kari Mosque, the interior of which is decorated with gold leaf; and to look up at the curious, tiger-like creatures depicted in the tiles on the front of the Sher Dor Medressa. Musician Babur also has his workshop within the madrassa; pop in for an impromptu performance.

The final stop on your day’s tour should be Gur-e-amir, the mausoleum of Amir Timur. Timur wanted to be buried in Shakhrisabz but when he died on campaign in China, it was decided to inter him here instead, in the mausoleum he had built for his favourite grandson.