Wanderlust Travel Magazine (UK)
Travel icon: San Francisco
One of the greenest cities in the US, San Francisco is an eclectic mix of bohemian neighbourhoods, redwood forests, bay views and a golden past...
Delve into SF’S quirky districts and parks to find a city ahead of the curve
Get orientated
The ‘city by the bay’ has long been a hub for pioneers. After first booming during the Gold Rush, it became a bohemian playground for ’60s activists calling for peace and love, before Silicon Valley’s forward-thinkers dreamed up new marvels to change the way we think. But beyond this history, there’s wild coastlines, Pacific vistas and the infamous prison island of Alcatraz to escape to.
But in April, travellers can dive into the past at the iconic Golden Gate Park, soon to mark its 150th birthday with a year-long calendar of events (from 4 April), starting with a free community celebration. Hop on a specially installed, 45m-high observation wheel and you’ll discover views over this urban oasis that stretch from the Pacific to the centre of the city.
But go in summer and you’ll meet Karl: the towering fog that cloaks the bay so often that locals named it after a misunderstood giant. It’s best not to argue with Karl, though – he burns away by lunch, but the city’s redwood forests feel almost unearthly when he smokes over the iconic bridge and through the trails at dawn and dusk.
Getting there & around
British Airways flies direct from London Heathrow to San Francisco (the shortest journey time is around 11 hours and costs from £278 return).
The visit
A good place to kick off your trip is Buena Vista Park, the city’s oldest, where you can wander uphill through thickets of coast redwoods and cypress trees to admire dramatic views framing the Bay Area, before diving into the lively Haight Ashbury district. Here you’ll capture the eclectic essence of SF, with plenty of iconic street murals (some even dating back to that famous summer of ’67) to admire.
The countercultural district is right on your way to the Golden Gate Park, too, where you can find a brief escape from the din of city life. Delve into its lush greenery, go to the Spreckels Temple of Music for free Sunday concerts (April-october) or stroll through the Japanese tea garden ($9/£7); The Moon Bridge and the Great Buddha (probably one of the largest outside Asia) are justly celebrated, and if you visit before 10am on Monday, Wednesday and Friday, it’s free.
To break out of the city, ferry over to Alcatraz and tour the fortress’s underground cells and secret passageways, or visit the windswept Point Reyes National Seashore for its wildlife wonders. Sunny California is a distant memory here, but the sightings of rare tule elk and bobcats roaming the land are well worth it. Elephant seals screech on the shore, too, making their voices heard among the mix – the perfect setting to end your trip.