Wanderlust Travel Magazine (UK)
Footnotes
Guyana
Vital statistics
Capital: Georgetown
Population: 778,000
Language: English plus Creole and Amerindian dialects
Time: GMT-4
International dialling code: +592
Visas: Not required by UK nationals for trips of up to 30 days.
Money: Guyanese dollar (GYD), currently around G$266 to the UK£. Note that Guyana is still a largely cash-based economy. Don’t rely on your credit card.
When to go
May to August: This is the rainy season, when it’s particularly heavy in the country’s interior. December: There are lighter rains in the country’s interior, known as the ‘cashew rains.’ The rest of the year is the dry season but, being a tropical forest, there can be showers. The average temperature is 26.8°C. Humidity is generally high.
Health & safety
Take care in Georgetown, especially after dark. Guyana is generally safe and friendly. Healthwise, it’s worth being up to date with your jabs. Don’t skimp on sun protection and insect repellent. The malaria risk depends upon where you are visiting so take expert advice.
Getting there & around
Virgin Atlantic (virginatlantic.com) flies from London Gatwick via Bridgetown from £659 return; the shortest journey time is around 13 hours. American Airways (aa.com) operates flights from London Heathrow via New York from £705 return; the shortest journey time is around 17 hours. Cheddi Jagan International Airport is 41km south of Georgetown. The one-hour taxi journey costs G$5,000-6,000 (around £20) – it’s wise to organise a transfer, especially if arriving after dark.
The easiest and safest way to get around Georgetown is by taxi. Travelling around the country is more difficult as the few roads are not in good condition, and some places are best or only accessed by river. If you’re travelling independently, look into internal flights. Travelling with a tour operator or guide is recommended.
Accommodation
Georgetown: Dating back to the 1840s, Cara Lodge (caralodge. com) is a beautiful heritage hotel, and the place to stay as Mick Jagger and many celebrities will testify. Doubles from US$145/£111.
Alternatively, Kings Hotel & Residences (kingshotel.gy/) offers spacious rooms and a popular bistro and (sometimes noisy) bar. Doubles from US$150/£115.
The Interior: Note that accommodation is often simple compared to safari lodges in Africa. But hosts are welcoming, and food is fresh and local. Just getting to Rewa Ecolodge (rewaecolodge.com/) is an adventure as it’s set on the confluence of two rivers and only
accessed by boat. Double occupancy for a Benam bedroom costs G$8,190 (£30).
Like Rewa, Surama Ecolodge
(suramaecolodge.com/) is Amerindian-owned and run and has led the way in community tourism in Guyana. It’s surrounded by savannah, mountains and forest, so a large range of experiences are on offer. The Surama Sampler tour with three nights, full board, accommodation and guiding is from US$450 (£343.)
The Karanambu Lodge
(karanambutrustandlodge. org) is a former cattle ranch set on the savannah lands of the North Rupununi area. Known for its giant river otters, the varied habitats result in good sightings of giant anteaters and incredible birdwatching. Doubles from $US260 (£199).
Atta Rainforest Lodge
(attarainforestlodge.com/) is set near the base of the Iwokrama Canopy Walkway and gives the opportunity to explore the walkway at all hours. A good spot for keen birders, it’s also possible to visit a cock-of-the-rock lek from here. Doubles from £188.
Food & drink
Guyanese cuisine is a mix of Caribbean, Amerindian, Chinese and a huge range of other influences. The national dish is pepperpot, an Amerindian stew made with meat and cassareep, an extract of cassava. The dish will last indefinitely if boiled up. Cassava has become a staple ingredient, and is turned into farine, a grain eaten on its own or made into different types of bread and snacks. Rum is the liquor of choice; Guyana produces some of the best in the world. The local beer is Banks.
Further reading & information
Guyana (Bradt Travel Guides, 2018) Wild Coast: Travels on South America’s Untamed Edge (Profile Books, 2012), by John Gimlette guyanatourism.com