Wanderlust Travel Magazine (UK)
Footnotes
North Iceland
Vital statistics
Capital: Reykjavík
Population: 350,000
Language: Icelandic, with English commonly spoken.
Time: GMT
International dialling code: +354
Visas: UK nationals don’t need a visa to travel to Iceland.
Money: Icelandic króna (ISK), currently around 159 to the UK£. Cash machines can be found in larger towns, but not in remote areas so it’s good to carry cash. Cards are accepted at most hotels, restaurants and petrol stations.
When to go
June–august: Summer offers warmer weather (although not guaranteed) and the midnight sun, as well as more birds, including puffins. There’s a better chance of spotting whales, but it’s also the busiest time of the year for tourists. September–march: The northern lights are best in the dark winter months, although in northern Iceland the weather can be grim and conditions difficult at this time. September is good for experiencing the autumn colours and still offers a chance of seeing the northern lights.
Health & safety
Rough gravel roads around peninsulas often have loose stones and potholes. Drive carefully – speed limits are there for a reason. Petrol stations are scarce in remote areas so keep your eye on your fuel and ensure your phone is always charged.
Getting there & around
Several airlines fly to Reykjavík from the UK airports. British Airways (returns from London Heathrow to Reykjavík from £114; ba.com; 0344 493 0125) and Icelandair (returns from London Heathrow to Reykjavík from £127; icelandair.co.uk; 020 7874 1000). Air Iceland Connect (airicelandconnect.com) has oneway flights between Reykjavík and Egilsstaðir in east Iceland (to start or finish the Arctic Coast Way) from £130, including baggage.
Domestic airlines serve hubs, including Akureyri, and it’s possible to get buses to main towns and villages around Iceland’s ring road.
To explore the Arctic Coast Way freely, you need to hire a car, ideally a 4WD. Renting a 4WD for 12 days with Europcar (europcar.is) with pick-up and return at Keflavík International Airport costs £790.50, or £881.91 for a one-way drop-off at Egilsstaðir airport.
Cost of travel
Iceland isn’t cheap. A glass of beer costs around 1,000 ISK (£6.50) to 1,400 ISK (£9), while a main course at a restaurant costs from 2,500 ISK (£16) to 6,000 ISK (£38). Petrol is around 239 ISK (£1.50) per litre and diesel is around 231 ISK (£1.45). You should budget around £250 for petrol for the 12-day trip.
Accommodation
Camping is possible and there are hostels in Akureyri, but north Iceland mostly has guesthouses and hotels.
Brimslóð Atelier Guesthouse (Blönduós, brimslodguesthouse.is) is a stylish new guesthouse on the seafront, with a modern restaurant. Doubles from 28,380 ISK (£178).
Hótel Tindastóll (Sauðárkrókur; arctichotel.is) is Iceland’s oldest hotel; cosy doubles from 17,000 ISK (£107).
Sigló Hótel (Siglufjörður; siglohotel. is) is a stylish hotel on the waterfront; doubles from 28,000 ISK (£176).
Hótel Skúlagarður (Ásbyrgi; skulagardur.is), close to Ásbyrgi
canyon, is on a sheep farm, with a restaurant serving local produce. Doubles from 18,000 ISK (£113).
Ytra Lón Farm Lodge (Þorshöfn; ytralon.is) has self-catering units and a restaurant in the Langanes peninsula. Two-person studio apartments from 16,993 ISK (£107).
Food & drink
With farming and fishing dominating life in north Iceland, there’s lamb and fish on most menus in north Iceland. Skyr, the yoghurt-like soft cheese, crops up often in desserts. Whaling is a contentious issue in Iceland. Don’t eat whale meat and avoid restaurants that serve it.
Further reading & info
Lonely Planet: Iceland (May 2019). For more info, see arcticcoastway.is, northiceland.is and promoteiceland.is.