A TASTE OF THE PLAINS

One thing Niigata and Tsuruoka have in common are rice fields that stretch far into the horizon. Both regions see heavy snowfall in winter, which brings moisture to the soil, and intense sunlight in summer, creating optimal humidity. This results in some of the best rice in Japan. Niigata’s local brand, Koshihikari, is much sought-after by sushi chefs for its texture, while Tsuruoka’s Tsuyahime rice has for six years in a row been awarded the highest ranking in the annual Japanese Rice Tasting Contest.

For Niigata, this bounty of delicious rice has led to high quality saké. The conditions are perfect for producing it: the heavy snowfall purifies the air, then creates an abundance of pure fresh water when it melts. This is used to ferment the local rice, resulting in a premium rice wine that is considered one of the best in the country. There are around 90 breweries in Niigata, many of which can be visited for a tour and tasting. Imayotsukasa found near Niigata Station is a well-known brewery. Founded in 1767 it has free tours in English. Or, try and time your visit for 'Sake no Jin' for a taste of Niigata’s annual sake festival.

Tsuruoka, on the other hand, uses their award-winning rice in more deferential ways. Locals see rice as a divine gift, and so use it as a main ingredient to food and drink at festivals. On 31 December, one of the largest celebrations takes place on snowy Mount Haguro, where toasted onigiri (seasoned rice balls) and hot local saké flows freely, to warm the bodies – and more figuratively the hearts – of participants, ‘purifying them’ for the year ahead.

Both cities and their approach to gastronomy can tell you so much about their way of life. They paint a picture of how history, geography and culture can profoundly shape the cuisine of a destination – a very enticing prospect for all travellers.