Ethiopia

Reader Solange Hando goes beyond Lalibela’s rock-hewn churches to explore natural wonders, royal ruins and tiny mountain villages

The highlight: Peaks, craters and rocks – we travelled across the mountains. It was so arid and wild, with tiny villages glistening here and there and barely a handful of forlorn cities.

Must see: The unique rock-hewn churches of Lalibela are Ethiopia’s top attraction, but equally worth visiting are the remains of imperial castles in Gondar and the ruins of royal palaces, tombs and giant stelae up north in Aksum – Queen Sheba’s legendary birthplace. At the Unescolisted Simien National Park, we trekked within feet of gelada baboons that are only found in Ethiopia’s Highlands. Relax on the shores of Lake Tana, the source of the Blue Nile, and explore the waterfalls. Top tip: When you’re visiting churches and monasteries, don’t wear shorts above the knees, shoes or hats; ladies should cover their hair with a scarf. Take a torch for underground sites and expect a dawn call to Orthodox prayer – unless you have earplugs!

Cautionary tale: Most of Ethiopia rises above 1,500m, so trek slowly with frequent rests and plenty of water, and pack suitable shoes.

I wish I’d known: How much more there is to see down south from Bale Mountains NP to the ethnic lands and Great Rift Valley. I’ll have to go back.

Anything else: When checking dates, be aware of Ethiopia’s different calendar.