Wanderlust Travel Magazine (UK)
Chile’s islands
It’s not all about Easter – many more islands lie off Chile’s lengthy coastline, from culture-rich archipelagos to penguin hang-outs to the homes of infamous castaways
Make forays off the country’s lengthy coastline to discover the varied archipelagos that lie offshore.
CHILOÉ
Why go? Sitting off the coast of the southern Lake District and northern Patagonia, the Chiloé archipelago is a fascinating, under-visited place. It encompasses extensive fjords, wetlands and temperate rainforests, colourful palafitos (stilted fishermen’s houses) and around 70 distinctive wooden churches and chapels that date back to the 18th and 19th centuries, 16 of which have been collectively named a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The archipelago also has a wealth of intriguing myths and legends, as well as a hearty cuisine focused on potatoes and super-fresh locally caught seafood.
Don’t miss: In the west of Isla Grande de Chiloé, the largest island in the archipelago, Parque Nacional Chiloé spans 430 sq km of moss-draped forests, sticky bogs, rocky coastline and windswept beaches. It is criss-crossed with walking trails and has an array of wildlife, including Chilote foxes, marine otters and a rare type of pygmy deer known as a pudú.
Need to know: Isla Grande de Chiloé is linked to the Chilean mainland by flights and frequent ferry services – principally from Pargua, 50km south of wellconnected Puerto Montt. It also has boat and ferry links to various other islands across the archipelago.
ISLA NAVARINO
Why go? In the far south, beyond the Magellan Strait, South America crumbles into the sparsely populated tangle of islands, islets, channels and waterways of Tierra del Fuego, which is divided between Chile and Argentina; Isla Navarino is on the Chilean side. It’s home to isolated Puerto Williams, the world’s most southerly city (as of 2019, when the town got a status upgrade and edged out Ushuaia). A friendly community of around 3,000 people, Puerto Williams has rich indigenous heritage, which can be explored at the nearby Yaghan community of Villa Ukika and the excellent Museo Antropológico Martin Gusinde. It is also a jumping-off point for cruises on the Beagle Channel, day trips to Cape Horn and world-class treks.
Don’t miss: Starting from Puerto Williams, the Dientes del Navarino is a tough but incredible fourto seven-day trek. Expect wild weather, offbeat Andes, highaltitude lakes, sublime views and few other hikers.
Need to know: Direct flights and ferries link Puerto Williams with Punta Arenas in Chilean Patagonia. A cheaper, more convoluted option is to travel by bus and boat via Ushuaia, on the opposite side of the Beagle Channel, in Argentinian Tierra del Fuego.
BEST OF THE REST...
Off Choros the coast and Damas of the islands Norte Chico (near region, right) are the covered Chañaral, by the Reserva Nacional Pingüino de Humboldt, home to a colony of Humboldt penguins; dolphins, sea lions, marine otters, turtles and various whale species can also be spotted.
Isla Mocha (far right), 40km west of the Lake District, is a tranquil, slow-paced island cloaked with forests – the result of copious rainfall – and ringed by deserted sandy beaches.
It receives few visitors but boasts more than 500 species of birds, and is a superb place for wilderness hikes.
ISLA RÓBINSON CRUSOE
Why go? The only permanently inhabited part of the Juan Fernández archipelago, 650km west of central Chile, Isla Róbinson Crusoe takes its name from Daniel Defoe’s novel, which was inspired in part by Scottish sailor Alexander Selkirk, who was marooned here in 1704. Now, the few travellers who visit can go birdwatching and hiking in the pristine rainforests, visit ruins linked to the island’s history of buccaneers and pirates, head out on fishing trips, sample the outstanding lobster, and get local insight in the village of San Juan Bautista, home to the island’s few hundred residents.
Don’t Crusoe diving miss: and offers snorkelling Isla some Róbinson of the in Chile. finest The waters surrounding the archipelago are protected by one of the world’s largest marine reserves, and are incredibly rich in coral reefs, shipwrecks and aquatic life – much of it endemic – that includes rare Juan Fernández fur seals and 420 species of fish.
Need to know: Getting here can be a challenge. There are generally weekly (very bumpy) flights on small planes from Santiago. If you’re feeling more adventurous, it may be possible to secure passage on a cargo or naval ship from Valparaíso; the voyage to the island takes 30-60 hours.