Wanderlust Travel Magazine (UK)
Hidden USA
Introducing the USA’S oldest city… we discover the history and wildlife beyond the beaches of the Sunshine State
Rediscover the hidden wonders of the 50 United States of America, from Saint Augustine to Santa Fe and Vermont to Louisiana.
Miami is sparkling and raucous; Orlando is full of thrills; but the little town of St Augustine, nestled into Florida’s historic coast, has something those glitzy big cities lack: charm.
Founded in 1565, St Augustine, 65km south of Jacksonville, is North America’s oldest continuously occupied European settlement. And it shows: more than 450 years of history are infused into its cobbled stones, from its narrow, winding streets and old colonial forts to its bright Spanish Revival architecture soaring in gilded towers. This may be the USA, but it feels more like an old-world European break.
That is, apart from the beaches. St Augustine may have history that predates the country itself, but this is still the Sunshine State.white sand stretches 67km along the coast, from golden bays filled with buzzing resorts to wild desolate dunes with not a soul around. Kayak along peaceful waterways with dolphins and manatees brushing past your boat, hike nature trails through estuaries ringing with birdsong, or cast a line and wait for tarpon and mackerel to bite.
That’s what St Augustine is about. Culture and open air. Historic sites in the morning, wild coastal adventures in the afternoon. Sounds pretty charming to me.
HISTORIC DOWNTOWN
Fifty five years before the pilgrims landed on Plymouth Rock, Admiral Don Pedro Menéndez de Avilés spotted a tiny Timucuan village on the coast, came ashore and claimed it for Spain.those roots still define St Augustine to this day, especially in its Historic Downtown: 144 blocks of living history framed by the sparkling waters of Matanzas Bay.
The sites here though are interspersed between museums, galleries and restaurants with outdoor terraces that spill onto the streets [see next page].this is a place to wander, to slow down and soak in the atmosphere, colour and scents – of fresh seafood and sweet treats – that drift on the air.
One of your first stops should be the Fountain ofyouth Archaeological Park (fountainofyouthflorida.com; $15.96[£12] adult), which marks the site of the original Timucuan village, Seloy, where the town was founded. Dispersed around its 61,000 sq km waterfront are numerous exhibitions that showcase the Native American and colonial history of the town.
Nearby, is the Castillo de San Marcos (nps.gov; $15.96[£12] adult): the oldest masonry fortification in the United States with nearly 350 years of stories hidden within. But, perhaps, most impressive of all is the Colonial Quarter, a walk-through recreation of the town in different stages of its history, from 16th century boat makers and blacksmiths to 17th century watchtowers, where Spanish soldiers would have watched for pirate flags on the horizon. ⊲
BEACHES
This northern coastal sliver of Florida may be an oasis unto itself when it comes to history, but when it comes to beaches, it’s all-out Sunshine State. Stretching 67km along the coast, joined together by the scenic A1A Beachfront Avenue, its sandy spots offer visitors a varied menu of wildlife and wandering.
In the north, Ponte Vedra is the most upmarket choice, with resorts, golf and all manner of ocean fun. A few kilometres south, at the Guana Tolomato Matanzas (GTM) Research Reserve (gtmnerr.org; $3.00[£2]
per vehicle up to eight people) it changes completely: an estuarian ecosystem, completely wild and filled with nesting sea turtles and more than 350 species of birds, including parakeets, egrets and plovers.
Further south, St Augustine Beach is lively, fun and right outside the Historic Downtown. Crescent Beach, on Anastasia Island, is one of the most scenic and untouched in the region, while Anastasia State Park
(floridastateparks.org; $8 [£6] per vehicle) is all about hiking barefoot in the sand, kilometres of open beach crossed by rolling dunes and some of the best sunrises you’ll ever see.
No matter which shore you traipse over, keep your eyes especially peeled for a very special memento: the beaches here, especially Vilano and Mickler’s Landing, are some of the best places in the country to find sharks’ teeth washed up on the shore.
WATERWAYS
The centuries of history will spark your curiosity and the beaches will fill your senses, but the waterways of Florida’s Historic Coast are where you’ll find adventure.the Matanzas, tolomato and Guana Rivers pass right through here and, because they are protected from the ocean, the waters are calm, easy to paddle and perhaps the best way to experience the region’s local wildlife.
A fine way to dip your oar in is to paddle The Salt Run, on the edge of Anastasia State Park and one of the best places to spot dolphins and manatees; maybe try cruising through the rich birdlife of the GTM Research Reserve; or take the chance to float along the bayfront of Downtown St Augustine, taking in the history from a waterside view. Stand-up paddleboards, surfboards and hydrobikes (like a pedal-powered mini-catamaran) are available too, as are more motorised adventures, including Florida’s iconic airboat tours.