Wanderlust Travel Magazine (UK)
Find freedom on the ISEL TRAIL
Get back to basics and reconnect with nature on this five-day hike
In Austria’s East Tirol, one of the last free-flowing glacial rivers – the Isel – winds its way from the Umbalkees Glacier to Lienz. The Isel Trail, opened in 2020, offers a multi-day hike through the High Tauern National Park. It’s a valley of rugged mountains, dreamy forests, hay meadows, Alpine villages and a glacial-blue river. This shape-shifting river has taken on a life of its own, carving out long gravel islands and banks where rare wildlife habitats thrive.
How different it would have been if plans for a hydroelectric power station hadn’t been halted. Instead, thanks to the work of dedicated conservationists, the valley was made a Natura 2000 protected area in 2015. Post lockdown, hiking the Isel Trail is the perfect way to rediscover freedom in wilderness. Enjoy a deeply rewarding five-day hike or pick out the river’s highlights for shorter strolls…
DAY 1 LIENZ TO ST. JOHANN IM WALDE Distance: 16.2km
Total height reached: 752m
Lienz is known as ‘the pearl of the Dolomites’ and as its name suggests, it makes for a picturesque starting point for this soul-restoring hike. From the railway station, cross the colourful medieval town, passing the 13th-century hilltop Bruck Castle, out into a countryside of pine forests and meadows.
The milky-blue Isel is broad and stately at this point, gently flowing towards the River Drava. Shingle islands and banks, pale sandy beaches and the glittering surface of the Isel will tempt you to linger. This is a journey not to rush.
Once you reach the village of Ainet, relax in the beer garden of Aineterhof before climbing through a forested canyon to Daberer Waterfall, where you can feel its invigorating spray on your face.
Back at the Isel, follow the river to St. Johann am Walde for a wellearned rest in one of the riverside or farmhouse holiday lets.
DAY 2 TO MATREI Distance: 15.5km
Total height reached: 975m
From St. Johann to Huben, the Isel snakes through river meadows surrounded by majestic peaks. The long, gravel banks and islands, splashed with the pale pinks of the rare German Tamarisk against the blue water is a heart-lifting sight.
Take a break on the panorama sun terrace of Café Landerl at Huben before continuing through the narrowing river valley. The character of the river changes here: the Isel tumbling wildly through the cataracts of Feld. Pause to listen to the roar of the water and the low rumble of rocks carried along the riverbed. As you continue your walk, you will notice the valley opens out again and the river calms before the market town of Matrei shifts into view. Here, recuperate at the chic four-star spa Hotel Outside with its natural swimming pool, or at Monika Steiner’s cosy chalet.
DAY 3 TO PRÄGRATEN AM GROSSVENEDIGER Distance: 16.7km
Total height reached: 1,323m
As you pass through inky-green forests south of the river, with light streaming through the conifers and the scent of pine filling the air, you will likely feel at peace – until the booming waters of the Virgen cataracts shake you awake. Here, the Isel wildly plunges tens of metres through a ravine.
Stop for lunch at the horse ranch of Ortnerhof at Bobojach, where the river crashes through the Great Isel Gorge, before ambling through the open valley east of Prägraten am Grossvenediger. Spend a tranquil night at the forest and wildflower-surrounded Pension Schneiderhof.
DAY 4 TO CLARAHÜTTE Distance: 12km
Total height reached: 2,038m
After Prägraten am Grossvenediger the river burbles through open meadows, but soon the valley narrows and the Alps close in as mountain hamlets give way to forest and rock. At the gorge of Glo-schlucht, watch the water thunder through the ravine, raising dramatic clouds of mist.
Halt for lunch at the rustic Islitzeralm and enjoy the tastes of the Tirol: Schlipfkrapfen (filled dumplings) and Kaiserschmarren (pancakes). Nearby Umbaltal Waterfall is a highlight of the trek, where white water pounds through rocks. From here, walk beyond the tree-line and out into the amphitheatre of the Alps. The mountain hut of Clara – Clarahütte – is a welcome sight after the long climb, wedged between the sheersided walls of the High Tauerns.
DAY 5 TO UMBALKEES GLACIER AND BACK TO STRÖDEN Distance: 16.1km
Total height reached: 2,504m
The mountain path on the final day takes you through a terrain of glacial moraine and ice. Wildflower meadows give way to scarp slopes. The air is significantly cooler and the water of the young Isel icy cold. Reaching the tongue of the Umbalkees Glacier is an emotional moment – the sweep of ice, rock and scree offers up a terrain of harsh beauty – raw, powerful and magnificent.
Retrace your steps to Ströden and take the bus back to Lienz. Stop off at the Islitzeralm on the way down and celebrate the end of a glorious five-day hike with a Tirolean beer or strong coffee and Austrian cakes. Once you have completed the route, you will soon realise that the Isel Trail is more than a walk. Your lungs and muscles will be strengthened, your head decluttered and your body and soul revitalised – the perfect post-lockdown adventure.