Wanderlust Travel Magazine (UK)
Wandering the surprising Spanish-colonial streets of hardto-reach Vigan in the Philippines
With architecture more akin to that of Latin America or Spain and a centuries-old heritage of international trade, Unesco-listed Vigan might just be the most surprising city in the Philippines
It’s perfectly likely any traveller that has visited Latin America will have encountered Spanish colonial heritage, perhaps in Cartagena in Colombia or Quito in Ecuador. Because ever since the era of the conquistadores, the Spanish relished leaving their architectural mark on their overseas possessions, artistic flourishes that captured the grandiose pomp and power of imperial Madrid.
Therefore it shouldn’t be surprising that this predilection for architectural aggrandisement prevails in the Philippines. Under the rule of King Philip II, the Spanish began their colonisation of this sprawling archipelago in 1565 and would not relinquish it until surrender in the Spanishamerican war in 1898.Yet while traces of their rule might be expected in today’s capital, Manila, the most complete and beautiful exposition of this era is actually to be found in the remote far north of Luzon Island in Vigan, a small city redesigned in their own image by the Spanish from the 16th century onwards.
An extension of the Silk Road, vigan was flourishing long before the Spaniards had invented long-distance galleons. Prior to Juan de Salcedo seizing the city in 1572, it was a trading outpost sought by Chinese merchants who brought their silks to trade for the likes of indigo, gold and a highly prized (and still woven) fabric known as abel. when the Spanish took the city, they named it Villa Fernandina de Vigan in honour of King Philipp II’S late infant son.
Located in Ilocos Sur province, vigan is easily missed by travellers because it’s a little off-the-beaten track for those tight on time. The World Heritage-listed rice terraces of Banaue, 250km to the south-east, are typically as far north as many visitors will venture. With no flights, and requiring a longish bus journey to reach, vigan may feel like a bit of a schlep.
However, it’s thoroughly worth the effort. Certainly Vigan impressed UNESCO enough to invest it with World Heritage status in 1999. There were two principal reasons Vigan earned this inscription. First, it remains one of the few intact European trading cities in South-east Asia; its architectural integrity has survived sporadic upheavals by the local Bigueno population against Spain’s imposed rule and escaped excessive bombing during the Secondworldwar – a fate that befell Manila. Second, it characterises a unique fusion of Spanish and Asian design. this is reflected in the name of the river running through the city, the Mestizo (meaning ‘half-blood’ or
‘mixed’) – a river that was an important trade corridor, providing access to the South China Sea.
What remains for visitors to enjoy today is a template of Spanish design that encapsulates elegant plazas, churches and convents, wealthy mercantile houses and cobbled streets that all retain details influenced by Chinese-ilocano culture.
It is made for exploring on foot. Some of the city’s most attractive streets of predominately 18th- and 19th-century buildings are pedestrianised, while navigation is made easy by the grid-plan layout. The richest agglomeration of heritage architecture huddles around the two most historic plazas, Burgos and Salcedo; these are found below the confluence of the Mestizo and Govantes rivers, which make for a pleasant sunset cruise.the alleys also echo with the clip-clopping hooves of horse-drawn carriages called kalesa
– they offer rides, though try to avoid them as concerns remain over the welfare of the horses.
An excellent landmark is St Paul’s Metropolitan Cathedral, an early 19th-century reincarnation of a church built by the Augustinians in 1574; inside is the typical bombast of Baroque design. It lacks the finery of the nearby Archbishop’s Palace, finished in 1783, and which possesses a colourful museum of all things ecclesiastical. On the subject of museums, do seek out a nearby one, on Reyes Street, dedicated to the life of Vigan-born Padre José Burgos, a revolutionary Filipino Catholic priest who called for reform. He was unjustly tried by the Spanish and taken to Manila in 1872, where he was garrotted.
Elsewhere in Vigan, a pleasing uniformity of design remains, notably ancestral houses with thick walls, weighty doors and red-tiled or corrugatedaluminium roofs. Look out for vernacular flourishes such as delightful capiz-shell sliding windows, a cheaper substitute for glass.
Most pleasant of all is Crisologo Street. Free of traffic, it’s a lively cobblestone thoroughfare with classical townhouses and abundant cafes and bars, that can be ducked into during the fierce heat of the day. This is Vigan’s tourist hotspot and commerce here remains alive and well, with numerous souvenir shops, mostly selling tat. However, there are some lovely keepsakes to be found, not least Vigan’s renowned woven fabric,
abel ilocano, as well as a speciality ceramicware called burnay, handsome narrow-necked storage jars that will certainly require a larger suitcase to transport home.
Many of the heritage hotels and guesthouses are located centrally, and provide easy access to the fairly sedate nightlife offered in this conservative town. Sunset brings a measure of cool – albeit a minimal reduction to the clinging humidity – so head out at dusk onto the atmospherically lamp-lit streets to seek a cold drink and typical Ilocano delicacies including longganisa sausage,
sinanglaw (soupy beef brisket) and orangecoloured empanadas. Cafe Leona, on Crisologo Street, is a highly popular place for food.
Before the evening ends, drift back to Plaza Burgos to enjoy a dazzlingly kitsch display of illuminated fountains.