English Harbour, Antigua

Why go? On the island’s south coast, this restored naval base is a laidback mix of heritage buildings, waterside bars and restaurants, and a sheltered harbour that is at the heart of Antigua’s long-standing love affair with sailing. Horatio Nelson declared it a ‘vile spot’ when stationed here in 1784 but today his name graces the Unesco-listed Nelson’s Dockyard, home to an absorbing ensemble of Georgian-era buildings and a marina bristling with vintage sailing boats and immaculately kept superyachts.

Don’t miss: Housed in the former naval officers’ house, the well-presented Dockyard Museum brings the past to life through minutiae – such as a bone button and trading beads used by slaves – and gives insights into Nelson’s life, including his death mask.

Local flavours: For over 30 years Antiguans have been holding a popular Sunday afternoon barbecue and party up at Shirley Heights, a military post and signal station with a lofty view over English Harbour.the fun starts with steelpan music then local bands take over after the sun sets, with cheery chefs dishing up jerk chicken and grilled fish, and drinks served in the 1791 Guard House (shirleyheightslookout.com).

Our tip: Nelson’s Dockyard National Park has kilometres of coastal hiking trails while the English Harbour Commonwealth Walkway – for now, still a work-in-progress – links up its monuments and sites.when it’s time for a swim, head to the gentle waters of Galleon Beach or Pigeon Point Beach where you may well be joined by a passing turtle (nationalparksantigua.com).

An Admiral location (clockwise from top) Nelson’s Dockyard became vital in the 18th century, being the only harbour in the Eastern Caribbean big enough for safe naval ship repairs; the Dockyard Museum occupies the former Admiral’s House; Warri is a Caribbean pit-and-pebble board game that originated in northern Africa; Nelson didn’t like Antigua – he was unpopular with local merchants and ‘most woefully pinched’ by mosquitoes